Any gas leaks?

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Hi,

As some of you might know I've pulled up my wooden kitchen floor ready to ballast it at 80mm depth.

I've discovered the gas pipe supplying the cooker and it's old and covered in green stuff!

A few questions:

1. Can I check to make sure there leaks at any of the welds on the pipe?
2. Do I have to get the green stuff off before laying it in the concrete?
3. Can I simply wrap it in gaffa tape to stop the cement from reacting with it?

Thanks
 
I think the majority of replies to your lat post agreed in that the gas pipe should be replaced with plastci coated copper Lime in cem,ent will eat through Copper and clearly this process has started
you should get a Registered Gas Installer to inspect and advise

do not continue work on the floor untill the pipe work has been inspected tested and if neccesary replaced!! :wink:
 
Ensure it is Gas tight.

Either replace the corroded pipe with (best option), or....
Denso it :mrgreen:

Personally, I would use an RGI to replace the pipe and Denso it. It will work out cheaper than using the yellow plastic coated copper.
 
Hi guys,

Result... I've got a guy coming to pressure test my gas in the morning!

I know my situation is less than perfect but I'm stuck with the following.

3 years ago I gaffa taped the first half of the pipe and laid ballast on top. I can't for the life of my remember if it was green but I'm guessing it was. My guess is that the gas pipe has been under the house floor boards for over 10 years now.

The pressure test will test how the job I did 3yrs ago is coping I guess?! Fingers crossed it'll be ok?

Providing it's ok shall I just make the best of a bad job which is.... replace the bit of green pipe I've got left with new copper, then denso coat the copper once then screed over it?

Thanks for your help guys.
 
I think you are taking a big risk.

Is the upcoming pressure test going to be the usual tightness test at 20mbar, or is the guy going to isolate both ends of the pipe (so as not to damage anything connected to it) and pressurise it to, say, 3 bar? That might blow out any weakened wall section, but it might not and might just strain the pipe. (Its also quite dangerous if not done with a good deal of care).

You know the pipe is damaged. How can you be sure its not going to leak, maybe just a pin hole, in a month, a year, five years? I'd replace it straight away with protected pipe, plastic coated or denso'ed.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

The guy said a pressure test will only take 5mins to do. Anything wrong here?

I'm worried/anxious here now that my house will explode... I have an idea...

How about... I denso the left over copper before it gets burried and I run a new piece of copper and punch it through to the dinning room (where I know the supply comes in. That way, in a couple of months time when I lift the laminate and some board in the dining room I can make the original pipe we've been talking about redundant and know that the new feed to the cooker has denso round it and it's done properly?

When punching it through I'll tape the exposed end so nothing gets in it or a spider doesn't decide to crawl into it!

What do you think? Any pitfalls on that plan?

With denso can you wrap it long ways? Any advice wiring with it? Does one coat do the job or best to use two?

Thanks again... think I'll sleep tonight if this gets the thumbs up =)
 
Here's a photo so you can visualise the whole situation. I've marked the idea of punching a pipe through into the dinning room in red so you can see.

I'll wrap both pipes up in denso though. Does this stuff work 100% as it should? I will be fine to burry them if they are wrapped?

On a slightly different note... you'll notice my radiator in the background :lol: !!!!! Hope it's ok the way it's done? I guess pastic fitting are fine to burry as they are? Don't the expand/shrink witht he heat and cause problems? I've use the inserts in the plastic fittings by the way and tightened the collar after inserting. I guess I'll need to wrap all the copper and overlap it onto the plastic for this too?

2wrg70h.jpg


Thanks
 
... I denso the left over copper before it gets burried and I run a new piece of copper and punch it through to the dinning room (where I know the supply comes in. That way, in a couple of months time when I lift the laminate and some board in the dining room I can make the original pipe we've been talking about redundant and know that the new feed to the cooker has denso round it and it's done properly?

When punching it through I'll tape the exposed end so nothing gets in it or a spider doesn't decide to crawl into it!

What do you think? Any pitfalls on that plan?

With denso can you wrap it long ways? Any advice wiring with it? Does one coat do the job or best to use two?

Thanks again... think I'll sleep tonight if this gets the thumbs up =)

Laying the new piece for future use would amount to DIY gas work and you're not competent in this area. However it would avoid you having to pay someone, which I suspect is your prime motive.
You seem hellbent on ignoring any advice which you've asked for, but then it's your house. Your neighbours might think differently though.

PS. Plastic fittings s/be accessible too.
 
Hi Tibbot,

Thanks for your reply. I am listening to your advice as, can I clarify... with the new pipework I'm going to get the RGI guy who's coming doing this morningto fit it ready for the new supply. I'll be wrapping it in denso tape... what works best? 50 or 100mm width? Is there a technique? How many layers are needed?

With my plastic work I can find any other option than to burry them =( This I guess is fine until I have a leak or problem?

Thanks for your help,

I'm taking your advice.
 
The RGI has to do the whole job for it to be considered above board, if that matters. Therefore he should know how to prepare, install and test the pipe. This does seem more work than renewing the corroded bit.

I was advised many years ago by the old Corgi that denso was not an approved method and plastic coated copper was preferred for gas. That advice may have been b*ll**ks but I've followed it ever since so as not to have any issues with customers.
 
Thanks.

The problem is that half the corroded pipe is burried under the ballast so I can replace it. The RGI guy will hopefully put the new length of pipe in but won't be able to connect it... is this a problem? Can he test the pipe without it being attached to anything?

Obviously when I need it hooking up I'll get him back to do that part also.

Thanks
 
looks like the house that jack built! not only does the gas pipe seem to take a route that i personally wouldn't use (keep the buried section as short as possible) but there appears to be electric cables with JB's in very inappropriate places!

edit to also add:

why have you used different pipe/fittings for the rad? are those elbows jgspeedshite? if so expect troube ahead! they are well known to fail after a few years!
 

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