Approved for new build

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Hi guys, I am new to the forum but not new to DIYing lots of things at home. I have used the How To section for a while now and always found that useful.

I was hoping for some advice please - I have been approved for a new build to the rear of my garden, which is serviced by a street / road.

I am hoping to self build and have engineer's drawings that I don't fully understand. I have asked for clarification but the engineer is not being very helpful, saying I should appoint a builder.

I am attaching the engineer drawings - my query is two fold
1) How do Beam A and Beam B join to each other. Is it three pieces where they are coach bolted to one another or do they sit on top of each other?
2) Am I correct in my understanding that Beam A looks to have two vertical beams and one then going across horizontally? Why would I use fixing plates to fix it to the concrete? Wouldn't it be better to just concrete back fill it?

Many thanks in advance - I'll be starting the newbuild soon so will post regular updates
 

Attachments

  • Engineer Drawings 230428 24 Horndon Road RM5 3EP_Structure_Ground Floor And Roof GAs.pdf
    922.9 KB · Views: 159
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Why do you have any steels? Why don't you just use timber I joists and forget the steels and their pad foundations? That would probably be cheaper overall though you would end up with a deeper roof structure, assuming the current plan is to have the underside of the joists in line with the underside of the steels?

Or make the wall up the middle a supporting one and rest the joists on that, also dispensing with the steels, though it would need it's own foundation.

That said to answer your question beam A is doing the brunt of the work (it's the stronger of the two (@ 37kg/metre as opposed to beam B which is 30kg/metre)), so that could be a continuous beam across 6.3m long or thereabouts, then beam A will be formed of two other separate beams approx 5.3m long both bolted to beam A in the centre and sat on a padstone at the outer ends, it can all be flush.

BTW what's the wierd L shaped room at the back?
 
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Why do you have any steels? Why don't you just use timber I joists and forget the steels and their pad foundations? That would probably be cheaper overall though you would end up with a deeper roof structure, assuming the current plan is to have the underside of the joists in line with the underside of the steels?

Or make the wall up the middle a supporting one and rest the joists on that, also dispensing with the steels, though it would need it's own foundation.

That said to answer your question beam A is doing the brunt of the work (it's the stronger of the two (@ 37kg/metre as opposed to beam B which is 30kg/metre)), so that could be a continuous beam across 6.3m long or thereabouts, then beam A will be formed of two other separate beams approx 5.3m long both bolted to beam A in the centre and sat on a padstone at the outer ends, it can all be flush.

BTW what's the wierd L shaped room at the back?

Hi, thanks for your answer. I managed to get this clarified by the team that will be installing the beams and you were right.

I think the plan orientation may have confused you. That L shaped room is actually the entrance and landing, to the right is the bathroom and then the rest of the house layout.

1687905226984.png


I am really struggling to find a roofing contractor at a reasonable price -10k or thereabouts. Any suggestions to roofing contractors would be most welcome.

I am looking to start the project by August...I have a groundworks team but thinking about whether it might be worth digging the trenches and backfilling myself.....seems like a simple enough job to operate a mini digger and then calling in the concrete people to pump and pour? Is my understanding correct or have I over simplified?
 
Assume its a flat roof? Would be far simpler to just span the roof joists all the way across between the external walls and do away with the roof steelwork completely
If a solid timber joist is too deep for the span then have a look at posi-joists.
 
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The L shaped room still bugs me, why the double doors? You could easily add some additional storage and make the rooms a tad bigger, why waste it on circulation space? In fact the whole layout bugs me, you could have more sensible shaped bedroom at the entrance end (where the bathroom is) and a more sensibly shaped living/kitchen at the other and windowless bathroom in the middle but the rooms would be far more practical. And all the questions reiterated by Jeds still remain.

layout.jpg
 
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The roof is 10 meters long, so assuming this is why the structural engineer put in steel beems. When I queried with the architect about the roof, he said firrings don't run for 10 meters and max is 5-6m. Roofer had said the same thing.

WRT the layout - the one you drew out is the plan we had initially. However it was refused by planning officers due to the site constraints so we are with the layout we have now. My plan is to change the internal layout once it is all signed off.
 
What have steel beams and firrings got to do with each other!
Firrings are related to the fall, and even I know you can extend them as long as you like within reason by stacking them on top of a piece of wood. Or just cut them yourself. Or have a sloping ceiling if you really like! Or you can have a fall to each side.

Also there's no such thing as getting the completed project signed off for planning, and I'm not even sure they'd know if you built it differently internally. Did they restrict any changes to the window sizes and positions as part of the planning conditions?
 
What have steel beams and firrings got to do with each other!
Firrings are related to the fall, and even I know you can extend them as long as you like within reason by stacking them on top of a piece of wood. Or just cut them yourself. Or have a sloping ceiling if you really like! Or you can have a fall to each side.

Also there's no such thing as getting the completed project signed off for planning, and I'm not even sure they'd know if you built it differently internally. Did they restrict any changes to the window sizes and positions as part of the planning conditions?
No restrictions were placed other than they withdrew the permitted development.

I know that I could technically now change the internal layout. Issue is, I still have to satisfy the BCO.
 
No restrictions were placed other than they withdrew the permitted development.

I know that I could technically now change the internal layout. Issue is, I still have to satisfy the BCO.
Ah right changing windows and adding them would be permitted development! Shame. But the internal changes would not be development.

The bco is not directly interested in planning permission, they are just checking that it complies with building regs. If it complies and they are satisfied, they will sign it off. Planning can enforce regardless of whether it was signed off as being building regs compliant.
 
Can planning enforce in internal layout changes though?

My thoughts around layout was something like this

1688071400323.png



Or this


1688071410447.png
 
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Someone else will be along with the legal answer but my understanding is that if it's a change of use, eg you were using it as separate accommodation or running a business eg having customers come, then planning would be needed. However if it's literally moving walls inside and changing what you use rooms for that would be fine.
 
Thanks, I think either way, I will probably vary the internal layout once I get to sorting the internals.

I am also building an outbuilding at the same time. I have look on the site but couldn't find - does anybody know if there are any outbuilding layout / suggested layouts anywhere?
 
You may find that you can't have a bathroom/toilet opening directly into a living/cooking area.
When I had an extension added to one of my homes, a number of years ago, They had to put in an 'ante-space'. In effect, a small room with 2 doors to act as a sort of airlock. Rules may have changed but be aware of it.
 

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