Are fixing holes on a patress subject to a standard placing?

[DIYalot]

Hi. The patress for the shower switch was smashed, but the switch plate itself is OK. The switch itself in made by Scolmore, Click brand I think. SW34511D-14B.E. But the patress is made by Legrand. 7364 11 15W50. So, the switch has an aspect ratio of roughly 2:1. (145mm x 85mm). Basically, I'm assuming there will be no problem going to say Wickes and finding a suitable patress, because there is a standard regarding fixing holes. Is this correct? Thanks. P.S. Interestingly, when you buy the Scolmore switch, you only get the switch,, with no patress if I am correct on this. Which perhaps tells you something. Which wou;ld be I suppose, that the expectation is that buying a matching patress is easy peasy.

 

[terryplumb]

There is no industry standard for fixing hole positions in pattress boxes.

 

[DIYalot]

Oh, if there is no standard, then I'm just going to have to take the switch plate and at the shop see whther I can find a patress that fits. I guess I'm hopeful.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Also even if the same size, the corners might be different.

These are the sizes for your switch according to:

Click Mode Double 45amp White PVC Cooker Switch with Neon | UKES

Click Mode Double 45amp White PVC Cooker Switch with Neon | UKES

www.ukelectricalsupplies.com

Can you not order another Legrand pattress if it is right?

 

[Sureitsoff?]

if its a scolmore click switch go to toolstation as they do scolmore click pattress boxes and a standard double should fit exactly

Click Mode Deep Pattress Box

• Stylish smooth profile pattress box• Cable restraint provided• Earth terminal provided• Multiple rear and side knockouts• Antibacterial & Antiviral Certified

www.toolstation.com

you dont get the pattress when you buy the switch as it could be flush mounted so a back box rather than a surface box would be needed

 

[plugwash]

There is no industry standard for fixing hole positions in pattress boxes.

To be clear.

* The holes used to fix the accessory to the box are standardised, at least for regular "single" and "double" boxes.
* The holes used to fix the box to the wall are not standardised, though you may get lucky.
* The overall size of the box is standardised, but the precise shape of the corners does vary slightly, so some boxes look neater with some accessories than others.

 

[sparkwright]

If you are bothered about re-using the old fixing holes, and can't get a pattress that has the fixing holes in the same place, consider buying a PVC 47mm pattress, and drill your own holes.

You can only drill PVC boxes - ordinary plastic ones will shatter, and you will not like it.

The only reason I imagine it would be important to use the same fixing holes is if plasterboard fixings have been used.

If there is a wooden noggin above, making new holes might not be a problem.

 

[securespark]

I have managed to drill a urea box, but it's a faff.

I started with a 1mm bit, then 2mm, then 3 then 4.

It was a 2G pattress to go over a recessed 1G box. I didn't have a PVC pattress.

 

[plugwash]

I've also driled urea patresses and faceplates before and I've often used files on them to clean up and enlarge knockout holes.

I think the main thing is to ensure that the plastic is supported during drilling. So the drill doesn't suddenly break through and smash the box.

 

[Adam_151]

* The holes used to fix the accessory to the box are standardised, at least for regular "single" and "double" boxes.
* The holes used to fix the box to the wall are not standardised, though you may get lucky.
* The overall size of the box is standardised, but the precise shape of the corners does vary slightly, so some boxes look neater with some accessories than others.

With thinks like shower switches you can also fall fowl of the mounting pillars for the threaded inserts which take the screws, I once changed an original ashley shower pullcord likely from the 90s for a new hager ashley one, got it all dressed in and couldnt get it to go back properly and found the 'shoulders' in the box were fowling on the switch. Theres nothing like having to do a job twice... and thats when you normally find out the box has been fixed to the ceiling by sending the apprentice up into the loft to find two scraps of wood to hold while screws are put in to fix the box, and of course you are replacing it on your own and have no way to hold the scraps of wood still in a loft thats now been topped up with 6 million inches of insulation (and yes, the shower cable is buried in the middle of it)

 

[plugwash]

I had a similar issue with an old flush box at my parents house. The box had originally had an unswitched socket (tenby I think), which I replaced with a FCU years ago for furniture clearance reasons. Mum wanted it swapped back to a socket and expressed a preference for the socket to be switched so I grabbed a new MK "logic plus" switched socket.

Try as I might I just couldn't get the new socket to go on the box. The short wires weren't helping but I think the box was also just very slightly smaller than a modern one.

Fortunately I was able to retreive an old tenby unswitched single socket from the garage and fit that instead.

 

[DIYalot]

Hi. I went to B&Q (first shop I went to) and bought a deep pattress that fits the switch faceplate. The faceplate is exactly as wide as the pattress, but is 1mm or less short in the length at either side, but there is no daylight between the pattress and the switch plate. So, I'm figuring to use the pattress. And perhaps just smear on some putty or similar on each lengthwise end.