Are the fumes from a combi boiler carbon monoxide?

50/60 ppm co is about normal for the ecotecs when the co2 is set right. Dave will jump on me now if I'm wrong. :D
 
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Aren't we digressing here people ;) The OP is having concerns on the neighbours "plume," and subsequent installation issues. If it is sticking 18 inches out to clear the soffat or guttering then the installation is incorrect and the installer hasn't complied with the MI's. I suggest you call the dreaded CORGI, be quick though, they cease on the 1st April fella :rolleyes: Then another rip-off organisation take over our glorious trade! Seriously, seek professional help, the RGI may have to come back (if he is a proper RGI) and carryout remedial or corrective work on the property. There is a vetical plume orientation kit that can be fitted to the terminals for this specific reason, so no nuisance pluming can affect any neighbouring property :cool:
 
Seek proffesional help , why
Well as i reply to this there has been 723 views on this and at least 400 since Oilman got the basics wrong .
And out of all those views only me and DIA pulled him on it and none of the rest of you have made a commenrt on a basic mistake.

WHY.
Do yous not know how a boiler works or do you not want to upset people
 
Seek proffesional help , why
Well as i reply to this there has been 723 views on this and at least 400 since Oilman got the basics wrong .
And out of all those views only me and DIA pulled him on it and none of the rest of you have made a commenrt on a basic mistake.

WHY.
Do yous not know how a boiler works or do you not want to upset people

Well if I have got it wrong, please explain why there is a vapour plume coming out of the flue. If it had condensed in the boiler, the latent heat of vapourisation would have been recovered by the heat exchanger. Since it hasn't condensed until it got out of the flue, the heat hasn't been recovered. SOME will have been recovered, but not enough to support the advertisers claims of 15%.

Could it be that ALL the others are not wrong? I am often castigated for thinking when others just chant the mantras.
 
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oilman is correct regarding the plume vapour.

if a boiler is fully condensing then you will not see any plume. if it performing within the normal tolerances (eg around 88 to 97 covers both gas and oil) then you will get plume. when the flue temp is over around 150 degrees and not condensing you won't see any plume either.

FGA should read some co on gas boiler between 30 and 120.
 
So its condensing when you cannot see the flue gasses(plume), Eh so that means every none condensing boiler is working like a condensing boiler then because you can`t see any flue plume from them.

The reason you see the plume is because the heat is being taken from the exhaust and the boiler is actually condensing at that time.
When the temp of the boiler increases and it starts to struggle to transfer the additional heat from the gasses into the system the exhaust temp rises and the boiler stops condensing and you don`t get the plume.
www.which.co.uk/reviews/boilers/page/condensing-boilers-explained
www.condensingboiler.org.uk
 
As with everything, condensing is not black and white.
99% percent of time boilers are partially condensing, when the return temp goes over 55C, it does not suddenly stop.
I happened to check this a few weeks ago on a 35 kw vailant running at 14 kw and starting from cold. When firing up there was no plume, but before the FLOW reached 50C, the plume started.
 
Another thing that tends to get forgotten is that presence/absence of a plume is an indication of condensing mode, not proof.
It depends on ambient temperature, relative humidity, and to a degree on the boiler design. And on fuel, but that is a different story.
 
Look, simple physics. If all the water vapour had condensed in the heat exchanger, it wouldn't be able to get to the flue terminal. Since it does get to the flue terminal, and later condenses outside, all the savings from condensing that the adverts claim, are not achieved.

This is essentially correct.

Published figures are chosen by the publisher; if that is the vendor of the machine, they will probably pick the highest set they can justify, which will be something like laboratory conditions.

anyone ever measured the difference between a system with 6, 4kw rads and one with 10, 1kw rads?
Anyone who can demonstrate to me how to achieve the required 20K drop @ 80/60 on a constant basis, on a 24kw steamer with 10 small rads, wins a weekend free booze.
 
I would at least AR that without getting my tools out or going in, and could probably make a good case for ID.
 
Any chance you can post a pic taken a little bit further away from the wall, and in portrait rather than in landscape?

Just curious to see if I can spot an even half dozen fails. :rolleyes:
 
Its a baxi boiler and baxi tech department say standard flue can be left to stick out that distrance without being detremental to operation of boiler due to cooling.
I would say he has left it sticking that far out to get away from the window as oppossed to the eaves as the measurement for that is only 25mm for the majority of baxi flues
It is too close to openable window it does not look 300mm from centre line of the properties, the flue looks to be on its side.
It needs a proper plume kit on it to take it up and over the eaves
 
I would at least AR that without getting my tools out or going in, and could probably make a good case for ID.

Thanks...

Please elaborate on these abbreviations!

Here are a couple of side views, in portrait:

Cant't get this upload feature to respect orientation in file data...
Put screen on its side,

or twist neck...
 
AR = at risk, bad enough to warrant compulsory remedial work

ID = immediately dangerous, so bad that it is compulsory disconnection until repaired.

The portrait picture I mentioned is fine to upload horizontally, I just meant take it from a bit more distance holding your camera so that the photo is higher than wide, and full size/high res, would not go amiss either.

There is no outlet visible for the safety valve. If that is wrong, anyone near the boiler can get sprayed with steam between 110C and 120C; if that hits you in the face, you end up looking like Niki Lauda.

A phone call to corgi with the message that you have serious concerns about safety would be a good idea.
tell them about "no pressure relieve valve visible" and "fumes getting indoors" should get an inspector out on the double.
There is no cost to this and no blame if it turns out to be false alarm.
 

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