Atkinson Tankmaster (oil tank) valve wheel completely stuck

[Rollerball]

Haven't turned it for some considerable time and now find that I cannot turn the wheel on my Atkinson Tankmaster - the thread has no doubt corroded.

It's this type of valve -

https://www.fueltankshop.co.uk/oil-tank-sight-gauge-atkinson-tankmaster/p4965

I know that you turn it clockwise to close the valve (it's a left handed thread so when turned the wheel moves outwards, releases pressure on the pin, and so shuts off the oil) so that's what I've been doing. It won't turn anticlockwise either.

I've tried squirting in some WD40 but so far nothing (not surprising really as even with the straw I can't get the WD40 into the area that's really seized up).

Any tips please on how to free it up, or I am going to have to get my installer to replace the whole valve and gauge? I hope not.

Thanks.

Edit:

Also, due to the stuck valve wheel, should it be necessary for my fitter to completely replace the Tankmaster gauge does the oil tank need to be emptied first or is it possible to replace the old gauge with oil still in the tank? The tank is just under half full.

 

[oilboffin]

These things don't last five minuets unless you wrap em in waterproof tape.yes you'll maybe need a new one get a fitter to do it.Bob

 

[Rollerball]

Thanks Bob.

How about replacing it when there's still a lot of oil in the tank - can this be done without losing any oil?

 

[oilhead]

Using grips on the handwheel, , turn it until you break the solder ring and remove the pressed wheel. You can then get the WD in the thread, and using your grips again, release the hub. Once free, purchase a new handwheel, remove the circlip, unscrew the old hub and fit the new wheel and replace the circlip. Try and remember to turn it occasionally.

 

[Rollerball]

Thanks.

Is it highly likely that the solder ring will break and hence separate from the wheel?

Presumably once the wheel is removed the pin that it presses on will spring out (as it's supposed to) and cut off the oil from the tank, so I guess it would be best for me to get a replacement wheel first?

Or, even if the solder ring breaks, will I still be able to use the old wheel (to keep the oil flowing into my boiler) until I get a replacement?

 

[oilhead]

You can still use the old hub to keep the valve open. Certainly buy the new wheel first. I change many of these this way and carry a spare wheel in van stock.

 

[Rollerball]

Understood, many thanks.

 

[Rollerball]

Bit of an update on this - using some grips I've freed up the wheel but it now keeps turning - I can see that the hub isn't moving therefore the wheel has separated from the hub yet not to the extent that I can just pull the wheel off the hub.

Any ideas on how to remove the wheel from the hub please? I'm tempted to just pry it off but am worried about potentially causing damage elsewhere.

(Incidentally, I now have a replacement wheel).

Edit - Scrub that, have managed to gently prise the wheel off the hub. Hub has now been soaked in WD40 so I'll try and release that soon with my grips.

Edit2 - Final update, all sorted! It was bloody difficult but I finally managed to unscrew the old hub. New wheel now fitted and all working just fine (I'm going to grease and tape it up to stop it jamming again). Many thanks to those who offered advice in this thread.

 

[oilhead]

Well done. A smear of copper ease will help.

 

[Rollerball]

Thanks, I've just ordered a small tube.