Awning mounting experiences sought - 2-story, 2-leaf block wall.

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Hello All,

New to the forum, but not DIY.
I am wondering if anyone has any input based on their own experiences with mounting an awning.
The awning details are:
- 4mx3m full cassette
- Being mounted at 2.8m above ground level
- Extending outward from house to the east in a well-sheltered garden.
- Prevailing wind in the location is W or SW (i.e. other side of the house).
- There are no pipes/electricals etc. obstructing at that height for the full width.
- 2-storey house, with what I believe is called "two leaf" construction (standard block wall, gap, inner block wall) - mid-90s construction.

It has 3 steel plates for mounting
Each plate is:
- 10mm thick (front to back)
- 160mm high
- 100mm wide
- Each has 3 holes (2 upper, one lower), 13mm aperture.
It is essentially a design whereby the plates are mounted on the wall, then the awning hangs on 2 rails which exist on the mounts. Each mount then has a securing plate added once handing to secure it in place.

As it's 13mm aperture on the mount holes, I was planning on 12mm threaded rod fixings (Fischer) into 14mm holes using Fischer FIS chemical mortar.
the plan would be to use laser level for accurate horizontal marking of each plate position, mark, drill, ensure all correct, blow/brush/blow to clean each hole, then proceed with the chemical mortar and inserting the rod fixings (ensuring they sit correctly in position in the steel plate before the mortar sets (not leaving the plate in place then, just to ensure it all lines up).

I am wondering what the appropriate depth of the fixing would need to be. I had been considering 160mm fixing length to get it through the first block. Is this sufficient for this case where there are 3 plates being used, each with 3x 12mm fixings?

Apologies for any bad naming of terms! I'm not in the trade.

Many thanks for any assistance which can be provided.
-sf
 
Thanks @Wayners , much appreciated.
I was wondering if the 12mm fixing rod should actually go through the outer leaf block into the cavity, and if so, should I also be using sleeves on the rods so that it spreads out the mortar on the other side of the block?
The diagrams I see for the Fischer fixings seem to usually show them not going fully through the block.

Thanks again
-sf
 
I've used chemical fixing and no,never gone through block.
Make it harder if you go through as you want resin to ooze out vs push through
 

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