Bath Panel Tiling Help

[Mark 9002]

I am in the process of tiling my bathroom and wish to finish of by fitting a tiled bath panel around a small (1400 x 700mm ) bath. I've been trawling all the websites to se what substrate would be suitable for this, But there seems to be some mixed opinions on some materials. I know that Aqua panel is highly recommended but my problem is that I live in the Orkney isles and a few of the materials recommended ( Aqua Panel , Weddieboard ect ) are just not available from the few builders merchants here and there are no DIY sheds. Cost of delivery for online purchases are scandalous should I choose that route.
My intention is to fix the panels in place with the Button Fix type 2 fixings so they can be removed for inspection or any maintenance required under the bath. so I have a few questions I wonder If you guys could help me with.

1) I have a 20mm Gap between the Inside Lip of the bath and panel support Framing. This will allow for a 12mm substrate and the 8mm Ceramic tiles Plus adhesive ( I hope). I have some Tanking Paste and primer left over from Tanking the shower and bath walls ( Mapei Stuff ). If I use 12mm WBP Plywood or MR MDF, I would cover both sides and ends with the Tanking paste prior to Tiling. Would this give a suitable and stable base to tile on. The adhesive I am using is Mapei Keraflex S1 slow drying cement adhesive.

2) 12mm Hardie Backer is available here ( £62 for 2400 x 1200 sheet ) but I believe this is a cement base board. Would this be able to securely hold the screws for the Button fix clips ??

3) Has anybody used these Button fix Type 2 clips before. Are they upto the Job

Any help would be appreciated
Thanks

 

[foxhole]

Hardibacker is fine as are clips ( though never known underside of bath to need any maintenance ).

 

[Mark 9002]

Thanks Foxhole.
I've never used the Hardiebacker before. Will screws for the clips get a grip into this Ok?
Actually underside of bath bit I should have put "Inspection". Years ago in our last house, the Bathroom was on Ground floor ( Suspended Timber Floor, same as what I have now). There was a leak under the Bath that went un-noticed for must have been some time, without any indication that something was amiss until the corner of the bath started Sagging. Needed to take out section of floor and Stud Partition, and replace a section of Joist, so now I like to keep an eye on things under the bath

 

[phil63]

An old thread, but as I have just gone through a similar job, I thought I'd give you my 'pennies worth..
I used some Hardiebacker (or similar) I had lying around as a tiled bath panel, but rather than trust to screwing the Type 2 Fixes (Button-Fix) directly to the rather friable board, I used pronged M5 T-nuts (which are easily available fom ebay) poking back through the panel from the front; the tiles and adhesive easily master the slight intrusion of the T-nut. I used M5 x 12 Pan head screws to attach the Fixes. The result is very strong, and I'm glad I did it like this, as the Type 2's need a hefty pull to disengage.. not sure if a screw directly into the board would hold reliably.
I shall try and attach an image of a test piece I did to show what I'm talking about..
The Type 2 Fixes seem to cope happily with the heavy panel; I used six Fixes for the main panel, and four for the end panel.

 

[Sang]

Hey,

I’m doing a similar project now, except I’m planning to use abacus elements bath panel board or the wedi board. I am having the same problem in that I think the screws on the Type 2 Fixes-from button fix, may just come straight through the board when I try to remove it with a suction cup.

How is yours holding up 2 years on from your last post? You used a Hardiebacker, do you think I can get the same job done with abacus or wedi? I’m not sure if these are as strong as the Hardiebacker when it comes to using the pronged T-nuts. Did you have issues with the pronged T-nuts? I’m afraid they may just pierce straight through these boards…

 

[Deleted member 292770]

All gimicks. ply is more than adequate.

 

[phil63]

Hey,

I’m doing a similar project now, except I’m planning to use abacus elements bath panel board or the wedi board. I am having the same problem in that I think the screws on the Type 2 Fixes-from button fix, may just come straight through the board when I try to remove it with a suction cup.

How is yours holding up 2 years on from your last post? You used a Hardiebacker, do you think I can get the same job done with abacus or wedi? I’m not sure if these are as strong as the Hardiebacker when it comes to using the pronged T-nuts. Did you have issues with the pronged T-nuts? I’m afraid they may just pierce straight through these boards…

Hi Sang.
I've had absolutely no problems with the T-nuts using Type 2 Button-fix on the Hardie-Backer, they work great; they really spread the load and don't pull out at all. I'm not quite sure what the skin is on the Abacus, but the Wedi certainly will be fine as they have a fibrous cementious skin like the Hardie-backer boards. I would honestly think either will work very well. If you are very worried, it's a straightforward job to knock a little off the Type 2 detent clips, to reduce the 6Kg or so of pull-off force. They'll still happily hold up a tiled panel. As Godwasaplaster says, ply will work fine and can be screwed into directly; but it is heavier, and sooner or later it will get some damp in and will start to bow or de-laminate (marine ply included), unless you've gone crazy on the varnish preparation. Hardie or Wedi boards are lighter, cheaper, and just don't warp or bow at all.

 

[Deleted member 292770]

I’ve installed ply bath panels to straight and L shaped baths over 10 years ago. no problems.