Bathroom extractor

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, that is true, but it will be cold to start with and I wonder about the overall benefit.

 

[JohnD]

It will be blowing warm air for half an hour or so. The duct will certainly get warm, about the same temperature as the air passing through it.

The humidity of the air passing through will reduce as time passes.

 

[Jupiter01]

Can I please confirm that I can't cover the actual motor with insulation?

 

[JohnD]

it's generally best not to cover electrical equipment in insulation. It can cause overheating.

 

[Jupiter01]

I'm loving this new extractor
It's markedly better than the other. A combination of higher extraction rate and longer timer delay mean that there is very little moisture hanging about!

I still need to fill the drill holes from the first extractor but would never go back to the conventional extractors. Thanks for the help.

 

[JohnD]

hooray!

how about noise?

 

[Jupiter01]

I've set it on the lowest setting as that seems adequate. I think the noise is slightly higher at the moment because my ceiling vent isn't screwed into the ceiling. Need to make the ceiling good before I do that. But even at the current levels, it's on a par with what I had - if not lower.

 

[Jupiter01]

I installed this inline extractor in Sept 2019 and recently noticed that it wasn’t as effective. When I place a piece of toilet roll on the extractor, it wasn’t sucking it against the grill. I then went up to the attic and noticed water sitting in all the low points of the above duct. I let this water out into a bucket and the extractor is running optimally again. It’s sucking in the piece of tissue.

I do have a reasonable length of ducting and it also follows the roof trusses. As seen in the pics.

I assume that the fan was overwhelmed by this water but a concerned that will collect up again over time.

I’d appreciate any thoughts. Thanks

 

[JohnD]

1) fit rigid duct, which is straight so does not sag into loops that hold water. Go straight up from the fan, then run the rest not quite horizontally, but tilting slightly down to the outside so any condensation runs out

2) wrap the duct in loft insulation so it is warmer and not prone to condensation

3) run the fan for longer, starting as soon as you go into the bathroom and before you turn on the shower, and running on until the room is dry. This can usually be accomplished by wiring the fan to the light switch, with a run-on timer

4) you might need a more powerful fan. Show us the one you have.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I’d appreciate any thoughts

Fit a condensation trap.

 

[Jupiter01]

I think a condensation trap requires discharging out to the roof gutter but this isn't accessible from where the duct currently is. It's impossible to get into the eaves of the roof from within my loft.

Are there any improvements I could make to the current ducting to overcome this issue? Thanks for your help.

 

[Jupiter01]

Hi Guys,
Can I please have some more advice on this. I am looking for a pragmatic solution as this has backed up again. Would the following work:

I was thinking of having a rigid pipe along the floor or the loft (as indicated by red line) and then have a short section of flexi on the left where it connects to the pump as it is slightly lower than then floor of the loft and another piece of flexi where it then connects to the pipe pointing out of the loft. I could also wrap this in insulation if that provides further protection. It will remove the incline and decline along the truss currently but create an impediment for when I am crawling further up the loft! I think I can manage that if this provides a lasting solution.

Also, the current run on with the pump is around 8 minutes. I would welcome any suggestions on extending this.

Thanks again.

 

[JohnD]

insulating the pipe will reduce condensation

having rigid pipe, it will be less inclined to collect water, and if you can tilt it, it will run outside

changing the run-on time to 20 or 30 minutes will help dry the bathroom, and should evaporate small amounts of damp in the pipe

rather than flexi, you can use an elbow to turn from vertical to horizontal.

your current layout is just about the worst possible.

 

[Jupiter01]

insulating the pipe will reduce condensation

Which type of insulation is suited for this purpose?

if you can tilt it, it will run outside

The level of the pump versus the upright pipe out of the roof will prevent this I think. I will inevitably require the pipe arrangement on the end (right of pic) to curve upwards to connect to the pipe out of the roof.

rather than flexi, you can use an elbow to turn from vertical to horizontal.

Are very small sections of flexi pipe also problematic? I was thinking that if it were small, it might be easier to get from the pump up to the floor level where the rigid pipe will be and same again - to go from rigid pipe up to the pipe which exits the roof.

Also, which type of rigid pipe should I use for this job please?

Thanks again.

 

[JohnD]

Which type of insulation is suited for this purpose?

you can use loft mineral wool, in which case use the type treated with Ecose (it will be marked on the wrapper) which does not shed irritant dust and fibres. in this case, I'd box it in so you don't keep scuffing it when you crawl the the loft.

You can also buy ready-insulated duct.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...m570.l1313&_nkw=100mm+duct+insulated&_sacat=0

from places that sell fans, cooker hoods and ventilation duct

I often use soil-pipe, which is about the right size, and handy to have around. It is thicker than ventilation duct, and less easily damaged. The internal diameter seems to be a bit tight, though, and I have had difficulty fitting some brands of fan to it