Baxi 105e drip

[micpwelsh]

Hi everyone,
Looking for a bit of advice on repairing my Baxi 105e boiler.
I’ve noticed a small drip coming from the crown nut between the two diverter valve bits (I’m assuming the O-ring inside the nut/pin assembly has worn out). While I’m working on it, I’m also planning to replace the automatic air vent (AAV) on the pump housing, as it has developed some dried green residue down the side.
A couple of quick questions for those familiar with this model:

Diaphragms: Since I’ll already have the boiler drained down and parts isolated, is it worth replacing both the primary (large) and secondary (small) diaphragms while I have it in bits? The parts are so cheap it seems logical to do them as preventative maintenance, but I'd like to hear if there are any gotchas to watch out for.

Timeframe: Roughly how long should I expect this job to take from start to finish (draining down, replacing the gland nut, AAV, diaphragms, and re-pressurising)?
Thanks in advance,
Michael

 

[CountryFan]

I haven’t ever done them but a few on here have and will hopefully respond for you.

 

[gas112]

Draining unless the boiler is at top off system turn off the flow and return valves and drain from little white knob on right hand side of boiler by pump
Auto air vent change about 2 minutes max.
Diaphragm and gland nut at front of boiler ten minutes
Smaller diaphragm at top there is a small bundy tube at back of housing that needs undoing so smaller spanner required to get in there. Also when changing that diaphragm make sure you put it the right way up as easy to put in upside down.
About 15 mins max.
So even a diyer should have whole job done in an hour max