Baxi 60/100 and Hive

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Have searched the site for solution and couldn't find one for my problem, hopefully someone is able to advise on where I have went wrong.

Formerly had potterton EP2002 controller connected to my BAXI system boiler 60/100. (See photo)
This also had a thermostat wired in and has a hot water cylinder in the attic.

I have identified the wiring for the old thermostat, and removed them.

Can someone please inform me how this should be wired up to the dual channel hive controller?

The wires I have are

power supply, which goes to live and neutral.

Live and neutral from boiler which go to live and neutral at the hive. Also there is a black wire which I assume is to tell boiler to fire up. (Does this go to CH on or HW on?)

Additional wires that I assume come from the hot water tank thermostat which are black, grey, brown and blue.

Any help or questions are welcomed greatly.
 

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your hive does not control your boiler, it controls the zone valves or Y plan valve which in turn control the boiler , we need to know which system you have
 
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I think it's a Y plan but may be wrong. I have attached a picture that may explain it better what I have.

Hopefully that helps.
 

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Here are the cables I have to connect. The old thermostat cables have been removed.
 

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Ok, is it still possible to use the Hive?

Have attached another picture as I think I'll need to amend wiring here as I have removed the old thermostat.
 

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Ok I have changed the live and neutral over from last picture. Still not sure where to connect other wires. Anyone help please?

Thanks
 
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I have managed to connect it up so the heating is on, by re-installing old thermostat. However that is showing red, that temp has been reached.
When I solely put hot water on the boiler isn't firing up. So unsure if not water is functioning when heating on or not.

Really confusing situation now to be honest.
 
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The Hive [Dual Channel Version] simply replaces the Potterton EP programmer.

2-jpg.203172


The wires in these terminals are simply moved over from the terminal at the Potterton to the terminal that has exactly the same function at the Hive, thus:

Potterton N = Hive N
Potterton L = Hive L
Potterton 3 = Hive 3 HW on
Potterton 4 = Hive 4 CH on

The Hive has the live link to Potterton terminal 5 made internally, so it's not needed with Hive. However, someone has added an extra wire in terminal 5, so the loop that was in 5 is discarded and the remaining brown wire in the 5 needs to go to the Hive L instead.

Terminal D is just a terminal to provide a handy connection, and has no function as far as the programmer is concerned, the black wires in there should not be connected to the Hive, but they do need to remain connected together. You will need to provide a separate terminal for this.

The existing room thermostat is removed and its live switching wires connected together. This allows the Hive to take over control from the original thermostat. The old thermostat wiring can't just be removed, otherwise the heating wiring will remain permanently 'open circuit' and will not operate. [Edit. Alternatively to get you up and running, you can leave the old thermostat in place and set it to maximum, that will prevent it interfering with the operation of the Hive]

Wires from the Potterton earth terminal go in the Hive earth tether.
 
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How water on its own is not kicking the boiler in. Only when heating is turned on.

Wiring is shown below, but with earth all connected to earth in the hive.

IMG-20200904-WA0000.jpeg
 
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No one will be able to provide any help looking at the photograph, unless you can tell us what is connected to the other end of each one of the wires shown.

Unfortunately, there are several ways of wiring heating systems and also there is no fixed wiring colour scheme; it's all down to the personal preference of the original installer. One installer may use a black wire for a certain function, another installer may use brown wire and yet another a grey wire. So photos of wires won't help at all sadly, only knowing what's connected to the other end of each of them would.

However, I'm guessing you won't know what each of the wires does, so if you are stuck, then I would put it all back exactly as it originally was, including the original room thermostat. Then when it's all working as it should do, remove the Potterton EP, and install the Hive as I described above leaving the original thermostat in situ and on its maximum setting. Then when the Hive is functioning as it should if you need any help to remove the original thermostat and decommissioning its wiring post back.
 
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And tidy up the wiring, there is far too much copper showing.
 
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How water on its own is not kicking the boiler in. Only when heating is turned on. View attachment 203864

Just a thought, is the hot water cylinder thermostat actually calling for heat? If the cylinder is full of hot water already and the thermostat is satisfied, it won't fire the boiler..... And you have the right version of the Hive for your system. [Dual Channel]
 

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