Baxi Combi Instant 105e not getting CH hot

[Agile]

Of course I wondered about the return filter.

But based on DP's assessment that all RGIs are highly experienced, I concluded that they will have checked that before engaging in expensive power flushing.

Or perhaps some are more interested in getting paid lots of money rather than fixing the fault?

 

[andymartin86]

Pump?

 

[DP]

Nothing but he says hot water is not as hot as it used to be!

Also that the water was very dirty.

Dirty water in a combi usually results in a blocked plate.

Usually, but not always
In this case water not hot as usual as there could be other issues resulting in leakage to rads when hot water desired.

 

[DP]

Of course I wondered about the return filter.

But based on DP's assessment that all RGIs are highly experienced, I concluded that they will have checked that before engaging in expensive power flushing.

Or perhaps some are more interested in getting paid lots of money rather than fixing the fault?

Tony at least I give credit where it is due.
You show me WHERE have I SAID ALL RGIs
I wonder who suggested pipes could be flattened to pass behind soil pipes and pennies could be epoxied onto a leaking radiator or you can seriously carry out repairs effectively whilst travelling by public transport.

 

[Steelmasons]

Of course I wondered about the return filter.

Did you fook.....most of your input on this forum has been gleaned from others..

 

[Bomberman]

OK, at the risk of igniting further conflict I'm gonna update this thread...

Forget the hot water bit, it's a red herring.

I've actually cut two rads out of the system that were badly placed and existed on their own little loop that just wasn't working. The situation with the CH remains the same however.
I've run each rad individually to get them to temp and seen up to 72degC on one - the coolest still managed 60degC which I would be happy with.
However, open them all up and only a couple or three get hot because...
The boiler is CONSTANTLY anti-cycling - is this normal? It gets belting hot and then shuts off as soon as it gets to temp and (as it should) waits three minutes before reigniting. Because of this the temp falls off all the way down which just isn't putting out enough heat to keep the rads warm. It's just putting out these 45 second long pulses of heat and stopping for three minutes.

I've tried cutting the flow to the hottest rads (a couple were actually fully off at the TRV end last night too) and the issue remains.

Any thoughts?

 

[Agile]

The boiler is doing what it is designed to do.

But as you have not told me the return temperature it is not possible for me to even start to suggest what is wrong.

Do you know if any of those attending checked and cleaned the return CH filter? If the water was dirty then it would have been mostly blocked.

There is also the question of if the boiler is modulating. That depends on the gas settings being correct.

Tony

 

[Bomberman]

Can't give you a figure on the return I'm afraid, but the return pipe is pretty cool to the touch. The boiler itself reports the flow gets down to 30degC on the front panel, which could well be right. Feels colder than that tbh.
Don't know if anyone cleaned the return filter - a filter was cleaned but I didn't get the info on which. There was a lad in for a whole day who reckoned the boiler was OK so I'd assume he checked that.

 

[Agile]

I never assume anything!

It is not clear to me what help you expect us to be able to give you.

Without simple information on flow and return temps and whether the return filter has been cleaned, there is nothing useful that I can say.

Tony

 

[Bomberman]

It is not clear to me what help you expect us to be able to give you.

Central Heating advice?

Without simple information on flow and return temps and whether the return filter has been cleaned

First request I've had for flow and return temps, and having a day job means I can't conjure them up instantaneously. I've also explained that I cannot tell you if the filter has been cleaned.

there is nothing useful that I can say.

Fair enough.

 

[ianmcd]

there is nothing useful that I can say.

For once Tony we actually agree on something

 

[DP]

Bomberman, feel the heat in the left pipe under the boiler. This should be quite hot when the LED thermometer on the boiler indicates high temperature. Now see if the inlet pipe to nearby radiators is at the same temperature.

While you are there, check the heat difference between the two 22mm pipes under the boiler when boiler is at high temperature

 

[Bomberman]

Hiya,

OK, I've measured the flow and return pipes as requested ;D Flow and return gets me this (this is over a full anti-cycle);

Outflow pipe 30 to 87.7 (degC)
Return pipe 25.5 to 27.9 (degC)

The inlet pipes to the radiators that I believe must be first in line I can't hold on to so they're pretty hot.

 

[DP]

These radiators, is the opposite pipe on these rads nearly as hot or cold.
Check plastic handles on the flow and return valves (22mm pipes) are aligned to the water flow i.e., valves are not closed.

Is plumbing plastic pipe or copper

If all ok, might be an idea to depressurise boiler to zero pressure and undo the blind nut on the right hand valve. Check filter and clean if dirty

 

[Bomberman]

The opposite pipes are warm to the touch, certainly not cold.
The valve taps are correctly aligned, and all the pipes are copper.

I'll have to take a look at the filter tomorrow.

Cheers