Bedroom Low Level Lighting Issue

[JohnW2]

I wondered about the exact value. ... All this talk about using trial and error to see what works best, but then aptsys says he has a 1W (same value as mine) fitting running at a tenth of the rated value. He says they are perfectly adequate for nightime illumination.

Again on the basis of rough mental arithmetic, a series capacitor of around 4.7 nF ought to roughly reduce the current through the LED elements to about 10% - but, again, even if you did get that degree of current reduction, I don't know what it would mean in terms of light output.

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

But aptsys knows what he used to reduce his 1W fittings to 0.1W and he says the light output is workable.

 

[JohnW2]

But aptsys knows what he used to reduce his 1W fittings to 0.1W and he says the light output is workable.

He does, and I presume he will tell you next time he's around. I just wanted to give you an 'estimate' in the meantime.

One problem is that whatever aptsys did to reduce his 1W fittings to 0.1W may not have the same effect on light output with your light - so, unfortunately, there has to be a fair degree of trial and error in relation to any particular light/fitting.

I don't know what value capacitors you have ordered, but if they are all of the order that was previously discussed (22 nF - 33 nF), then four or five of those in series might give you a low enough capacitance to reduce the current to about 10%.

Kind Regards, John

 

[aptsys]

I wondered about the exact value.
All this talk about using trial and error to see what works best, but then aptsys says he has a 1W (same value as mine) fitting running at a tenth of the rated value. He says they are perfectly adequate for nightime illumination. I have three of those Click Euro modules close to skirting level around the room. It'd be well worth trying his solution (unless it is a dimmer).

Mine are plain LED modules that run back to a controller that I made, so not really comparable in terms of how the brightness is achieved.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-x-1w-...Ceiling-Downlight-Kit-Pure-White/161770519105

The light levels should be comparable though.

 

[securespark]

Update. I am yet to receive the caps, but I have got the S/A white film.

It works quite well at blocking the light output, but would require at least 4 layers. This would probably look quite messy.

I have an idea: if I rearrange how the fittings are wired, then I could fit a cap or caps to the outgoing supply that feeds the three fittings.

Would this be achievable?

 

[JohnW2]

I have an idea: if I rearrange how the fittings are wired, then I could fit a cap or caps to the outgoing supply that feeds the three fittings.

Yes, in principle - in theory, you should need a capacitor of about three times the value (hence about a third of the reactance/impedance) that you would need for one light. How equal the light output would be between the three lights would depended on how 'exactly the same' was what was going on within each of them.

However, if I were you, I would certainly first experiment with just one light!

What value capacitors did you order in the end - did you perhaps order that ('slow to get here from China') kit?

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

Dimmers that work with ANY type of lamp - CLICK.

 

[JohnW2]

Dimmers that work with ANY type of lamp - CLICK.

Hmmmm - including blowlamps? If they're plastic, even if they worked, they might not work for too long with oil or gas (particularly not acetylene) lamps, either

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

I don't think you've got the hang of how to use them.

 

[JohnW2]

I don't think you've got the hang of how to use them.

I was merely trying to stay 'on-topic' - secure seems to want to 'dim' the light output of the source, not dim what light is perceived by the observer

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

Not sure what you mean there. I want to drop the light output to around 0.1W each.
I am buying the kit on the slow boat.

How equal the light output would be between the three lights would depended on how 'exactly the same' was what was going on within each of them.

They are all Click MM1000CW and all built identically.

 

[JohnW2]

Not sure what you mean there. I want to drop the light output to around 0.1W each.

I know that - but I'm not sure whether or not that comment was directed at me (my last couple of posts have been in relation to EFLIs suggestion of sunglasses!!).

I am buying the kit on the slow boat.

I rather suspected that - at least it will give you a wide range of values to play with.

They are all Click MM1000CW and all built identically.

Yes, but they are built of components (particularly capacitors and LED elements) that have tolerances of characteristics -= so, if you used just one external capacitor for three of them, you could not be certain that the effect on light output would be identical in all three. However, I very much doubt that there would be enough difference to be noticeable.

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

OK, the slowboat from China never arrived. Or if it did, my stuff has not arrived.

So I used the 22nF caps 4 in series and found them to give an erratic output, whether on a single MM1000 or all three.

Thinking I'm going to rethink the issue and fit 1363 sockets instead, with plug-in nightlights.

 

[securespark]

Have now tried a single cap and that refuses to light the LED modules at all.
I shall try Ban's idea of paint and if that fails, I shall fit 1363 sockets and plug-in nightlights.