I use what ever HomeBargains, B&M Bargains, or Lidi have in stock. On the odd time Screwfix or Link if buying something else. In the main Energizer but in LED times I have only had 6 lamps fail and 4 were silly 0.58W G5.3 from PoundWorld so they don't count, so one G9 and one replacement for a fluorescent both bought from electrical whole sale outlets. I think the problem with G9 is the fitting has glass over the bulb, [quote="422.3.1 Note BS7671:2008[/quote]A luminaire with a lamp that could eject flammable materials in case of failure should be constructed with a safety
protective shield for the lamp in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.[/quote] This means G9 lamps nearly always have glass over the bulbs so the LED runs hotter.
I would say there are three things we look for in a bulb.
1) Long life.
2) Good lumen per watt.
3) No flicker.
The last two are affected by bulb size and if they can be dimmed. HomeBargains did two Energizer E14 candle bulbs around 6 watt mark, one could be dimmed the other could not, and the was a marked difference in lumen per watt, and cost. However once out of the packet I don't think I could identify which was which, and with a life of around 6 years to remember what you bought and from where would be hard, only where lights are left one 24/7 could you really compare lamps.
So your left with flicker, I have only noted flicker when using electronic switching, and then you don't really know if it is the switch or the lamp, likely some thing in the switch is reacting with the lamp, so likely both at fault. The Energizer (or any other make) E14 and BA22d have not shown any flicker with electronic switches, had a little problem with GU10 but not sure what make, and a lot of problems with G9 mainly MiniSun, but as to if make or type can't really say.
After buying 16 Philips 8W CFL globe bulbs which started failing after a year, and by the second year most had been replaced, I steer clear of expensive bulbs, it seems cheap bulbs last longer, but the reports on the corn bulbs with live part you can touch does make one wary, I have asked the question with BA22d bulbs where the shell is metal should the shell be earthed? It is about the only class two item you can buy that does not have the class II mark
with screw and pin bulbs there are only two connections any way, but with bayonet bulbs some do use the shell as a connection, mainly 12 and 24 volt in motor vehicles, but you have a BA22d bulb with three connections and nothing on the bulb to say if the shell should be earthed, with bulb removed the bulb holder is about the only item not complying with the IPXXB or IP2X ratting as it is only exposed when replacing parts, as a small boy that was the only shock I ever got, a push switch on the counter light had failed stuck on, so dad had removed the bulb, and daft me stuck my finger in the hole.
