Best method of cutting my worktop?

[construct]

After paying two supposed joiners to install my worktop while i was away, they fitted it with an overshoot so long it's cramped the side of my fitted fridge freezer, making it almost impossible to close the freezer section without a bang. I've attached the image below and as you can appreciate i need to slice out a section (mainly toward the front) without damaging the freezer casing.

Any ideas?

 

[foxhole]

Was the f/f carcass not installed before the top?

 

[construct]

Was the f/f carcass not installed before the top?

Yes, the worktop was the last thing to go on, which is why i can't believe they fitted it so poorly....

 

[foxhole]

The f/f carcass was not fixed to the draw unit then? who installed.

 

[big-all]

how much overhang have you got to play with ??
whats at the other end as in could you move the worktop on the lhs or even the rhs ??

 

[Jasonb]

There is no face frame they are lay-on doors/draws and it won't make any difference if there was anyway, its the length of the top that is the problem, its been pushed in and sprung the freezer carcase in.

No easy way of doing it with the top in place, really needs to come out and be planed or routed to remove a slither unless as BA says there is room to move it all to the left a fraction.

J

 

[construct]

I can't move anything regardless, and there's tiling in place. I was considering using a floorboard saw as it's got a thin blade, but i'm concerned it might leave a messy end.

 

[big-all]

the trouble you will have because its forced in any saw will bind although you could knock off the offcut ever few inches if you can get that far
a wedge holding the side and top apart by another 2mm may help but at the risk off damage

i have the dewalt 18v plunge and it will cut within 11mm from the edge but you overhang looks more like 7mm?? then you you need to finish the last few inches
i usualy use a long reach jigsaw blade but you will have to bend a hand saw that will give you a curved cut even a tenon saw will be at an angle
you could finnish with a bosh or similar
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-PMF-180-Multifunctional-Allrounder/dp/B000WQOXV4

 

[Symptoms]

con - pull the fridge/freezer out to gain access to the innards of of the f/f carcase. Remove any wall anchors (holding the unit to the back wall), remove any fixing screws that hold this unit to the neighbouring drawer unit (you may have to access these from within the drawer unit after having first removed the drawers). Take a Stanley knife and score the grout line at the tile - f/f cabinet interface. Slide the f/f cabinet out to give access to end of worktop.

Now remove the slither of material from worktop as required, maybe use a plane; if you use a saw I'd suggest clamping a batten to the worktop to act as a guide. I reckon if you attempt to saw the slither off with the f/f cabinet in situ you risk scoring the face side of the said cabinet.

 

[Space cat]

I would make a tool for the job. It would be a padsaw blade - or maybe a hacksaw blade - clamped to a block of wood with a thin metal plate using countersunk screws. Then I would use a thin sheet of some hard, smooth material (metal or formica) to protect the side of the freezer. Obviously you shape the wood into a handle.

The combined thickness of the blade, the clamp plate and the sheet will be the amount removed. You should be able to fit all that into 7mm.

PS: I never said it would be easy.

PPS: Watch where the end of the blade is going. You don't really want damage below, even if you can't see it.

PPPS: Score the top first to prevent splintering, especially if you're cutting on the upstroke (which is probably the best way).

 

[construct]

Just for the record i opted to use my floorboard saw and everything came good...

 

[big-all]

excellent glad you got it sorted thanks for taking the time to get back to us