Best oil based gloss setup?

[dhutch]

Is this a counter or side board or the like?

Get a glass top cut for it?



Daniel

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

I'm not here saying you're wrong or right when I ask - if it's history then why do painter/decorators still insist on using it? I'm not saying they don't use water based as it all gets used, but why still oil if it's history?

And for the ring - I wasn't She did. And it could easily happen when picking something up off the surface so was just simply simulation.

 

[blightymam]

Forget oil based. It's history.

And stop wiping your wife's ring across the wall.

Not really helpful?


I thought that too, get some glass cut or use a table runner if it is a table!

To be fair, anyone should be able to give paintwork a slight scrape now and then without it marking or denting. I'd try oil based again for sure, and buy another tin to store for the future if you find one you like!

 

[joe-90]

All oil paints yellow. If you use oil it'll soon be magnolia. Sikkens is the one to go for.

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

Well this problem has been well & truly sorted tonight....

As i've said - the marking on the Johnstones Aqua w/b gloss which is supposed to be the best of its type.

Did i say i was hitting the satin on the door frame with a screwdriver? I meant gloss, which was oil based & didn't leave a mark.

The satin on the door frame turns out to be water based. Run the ring over it, keys over it, even ever so softly & it marks. Mash my ring on it - nothing.
Found a bit my wife had done in water base non drip satin - same problem.


So it seems water based paints may not yellow, but they mark very very easily (from metal - depending on metal type). Rub other things on there (behave!) and it doesn't mark. So it's certain metals that are the problem.



SO............ oil based paint it is then. Now to decide whether gloss or satin. Probably satin as i've read it holds out a bit better than gloss with the yellowing but inevitably will turn.

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

Oh dear, there's one i didn't think of...

We were all set for a totally water based system right from primer>top coat.

Now we're going to certainly go oil based i'm wondering if this presents a problem. I have no issue buying in new primer for the job. Thing is the door frames are terribly knotted. I did buy that Zinsser Bullseye i think it is, or Zinsser 123, whatever it's called that is for knots. It's shellac or something to that effect. Hopefully you know what i'm on about. If not then i can post back tomorrow night once i've been to the house & checked what the tin is.


Anyway, IIRC this is water based. Is this going to be ok to put on the wood & then oil based primer/undercoat/top coat on top? Obviously i'll be sanding it down once it's on. 180 grit i think is the finest i have. 80, 120 & 180.

Just wondered if it'd still be ok to use underneath oil based. Hope so.

 

[blightymam]

Am not sure which you have, my understanding is the B.I.N with shellac, then it's with alcohol. If it's water-based, then it's arcylic. They do so many different paints!! The latter recommends knotting before using to seal any knots anyway I think, so hopefully you have the first.. Which is fine for oil-based set up!

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

Yup I found an email Zinsser sent back to me so it's the BIN I have. Just need to select my oil primer/undercoat & satin (think we've decided now) top coat & we're good to go. Weekend of sanding ahead I think.

 

[dcdec]

Metals do mark paint pretty easily, my brothers watch strap marks the toilet architrave because he feels the need to support himself against it for some reason whilst do what boys do in the way they do it. I had a customer who's rings caught the doors every time she pulled down her door handles. There is a long cure time to paints, so not placing any objects on them for a couple of weeks is best practice. I have used hundreds of litres of sikkens BL satura and it is superb, it genuinely alleviates the need to use oil based satin, its actually an alkyd hybrid so not entirely water based but so is aqua. Sikkens do not make their WB gloss available in this country. The sikkens BL primer /undercoat is also excellent.
I have read about the new round of emission cuts, i honestly don't know when but guys you're gonna have to jump on the water based wagon sooner or later because oil based is going to become extinct.

 

[dcdec]

Just use knotting solution, bin is a nightmare to apply and stinks

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

Oh i agree - it's only a matter of time before oil based gets faded out big time as the world marches towards being even greener.

But in the meantime.... Plus from my limited experience, w/b needs more development, much more.

I appreciate what you're saying about the cure time, the thing is we've left if i don't know what, it must be 6-8 weeks now at a guess. I read that the cure time on w/b is 30 days so either way we're well past that.
The piece the previous owner did for example - the satin on that door frame. As we've owned the house 6 months it is therefore a minimum of 6 months old - yet it marks just the same way & just as easily with the same metals but again not my wedding ring.

As i say though - the oil based gloss they used on one windowsill, i have battered that quite well when testing it for marking. Screwdriver, keys, wifes ring, my ring - NOTHING has marked it. I've dragged keys over it - nothing.

I don't want you or anyone for that matter to get offended. I'm not saying anyone is right or wrong here as i simply don't have anywhere near the experience or knowledge of you guys. All i'm saying is what i've found.

I thought i'd cracked open the BIN but it turns out i haven't. Like with all of this, i'd done plenty of research & everything seemed to be pointing towards using the BIN for the job & that's why i bought it. I've thrown enough money away on paint so far so i'm going to have to use it & hope it works.

Thanks to everyone for your help.

 

[joe-90]

It's not the metal that marks the paint, it's the metal that is worn and leaves a metallic trace on the paint. If you want awful magnolia looking woodwork then go oil based. Personally, I've completely switched to Sikkens. I used it on my house a year ago and still looks as good today as the first day I painted it. No more horrible yellow.

Your choice.

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

Oh I know what you're saying. It's a case of prioritising. The windowsill for example will have something placed on it. I left a very small very light plastic clock on there overnight. The next night I moved it (picked it up, not scraped it along) & it had marked the surface slightly.

So it seems is a case of what we would rather - walking around with a cloth frantically rubbing these marks all the time or touching up the paint every x-[insert timeframe here].

There's a lot of sanding to be done between now & final decision day though so plenty of time to weigh it up.

As ever, thanks to all.

 

[joe-90]

If the surface is marking then there is something wrong on the coats prior. Sikkens is dead tough.

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

My God, i don't know what the previous owners did when they painted one doorframe but they made a royal hash of it.

My wife said it was flaking badly & she could fingernail it off. I put the scraper to it & it was like it just melted off. It was terrible. I wonder if that's how all waterbased-on-oilbased goes, or perhaps they've just not sanded it properly / at all so that there's a keyed surface.

Anyway, you could perhaps save me a lot of time. It's a dummy question but i'll ask it anyway.

I heat gunned the areas to be painted & scraped back to bare wood.

Now there's a lot of sanding to be done, even just with 1 grit. I bought some assorted aluminium oxide paper - 80 grit, 120 grit, 180 grit. I think it's 80 grit, it might be 60.

Anyway the paper packaging says to sand through all those grades before painting. Is this correct or is it play-safe? Do i have to go through all those 3 grits before painting or can i paint after the 80 or 120?

No problem if i have to run through them all. Just takes more time that's all.