Best replacement for Rosemary tiles on an end Terrace house?

[bigmondy]

The red rosemary tiles are very very old and delaminated/shaled and filthy. We are converting the loft and there is solid sarking underneath and between them is 60's bituminous felt that we will be stripping off as well as the tiles.

We were thinking of the small format concrete tiles that are available but wondered how this would look joining on to our neighbours roof - we are worried about it looking hideous.

Perhaps the Marley Duo Modern:

http://www.building-supplies-online...of-tile-old-english-dark-red-5418-p.jpg_2.jpg


Or the Redland Duo Plain:


http://www.greenjackets.co.uk/Images/Products/Large/1771_Tile-Int DuoPlain Redland Rustic Red.jpg


Or, because of the solid sarking (and to avoid removing it or fitting battens over it and differences in height), should we just stick to new Rosemary tiles - it's mainly for the front elevation and there are 3 large velux's in the front plain?

Starting in few weeks hopefully. If you can advise on the best membrane as well that would be great please?

Any advice appreciated folks.

Thanks again.

 

[noseall]

Replacing clay tiles with concrete tiles will always be contentious because of the way concrete tiles weather differently to clay, i.e. concrete will attract a greater degree of filth than a clay.

I would say that clay is the premium brand out of the two and will look nicer in my opinion. Performance wise, the clays should last longer.

The conc's are likely to be slightly bulkier than the clays and the nib position slightly different, therefore you will have a modest join anomaly where you bond in with the neighbours. This could be countered with a dry valley bonding gutter.

Practically speaking - apart from clays being slightly harder to cut than conc's, I would say there is little difference in installation times etc.

Use a breathable membrane.

 

[bigmondy]

Thanks for that noseall.

I am warming to them. The neighbours tiles are like mine - old and weathered and although all originally red - I think the mixed brindle would be the best choice.

Have you a favoured breathable membrane that would suit going over solid sarking and under the clay tiles?

 

[noseall]

Have you a favoured breathable membrane that would suit going over solid sarking and under the clay tiles?

Practically speaking breathable membrane is difficult to beat.

As long as the fixing instructions are followed (counter-battens, draping etc) then breathable will be fine above a solid sarked roof.

 

[bigmondy]

Thanks sir.

 

[bigmondy]

Just occurred to me. Using Rosemary I hoped that we could avoid having to install battens........... the old tiles were fixed in to their course in to the longitudinal gap left on the sarking. Only the very odd tile was nailed through the sarking. It was almost as if they were just sitting on the roof with their lapped weight holding them down.

Was hoping we could fit the new ones that way - but then it occurred to me there will be hundreds of holes in the breathable membrane rendering it useless.

Even fitting battens will require nails surely?

Or do you only nail the battens in to the trusses?

Totally confused now.

 

[noseall]

Every roof membrane in the country is full of holes, nay bother laddie.

Without a batten the tile relies on the nail rather than the nibs and means a hollow spot beneath when nailing. You will end up with a lot of broken tiles. Use battens.

 

[bigmondy]

Sounds like good advice sir. Battens it is.

Stupid question no 10 alert. Does the fitting of Battens not result in a depth difference between the neighbours tiles and mine on the terrace?

I suppose a dry Valley would be between them so it might not be that noticeable?

Cheers for the advice.

 

[noseall]

Sounds like good advice sir. Battens it is.

Stupid question no 10 alert. Does the fitting of Battens not result in a depth difference between the neighbours tiles and mine on the terrace?

I suppose a dry Valley would be between them so it might not be that noticeable?

Cheers for the advice.

Odd that there are no battens but I guess this is the Scottish way.

You will have trouble achieving a seam free finish on the neighbours side with a dry valley, bearing in mind the profile depth of the dry valley profiles coupled with the fact that there are zero battens raising his tiles to a suitable height to overcome said profiles.

Needs a wee bit of thought this one.

 

[bigmondy]

That's what I thought sir. We jocks are a weird lot heh heh. Not a batten in site - but it really is solidly constructed with the solid sarking.

Another issue that brings is there will be no draping tollerance available on the breathable membrane. So that's why you suggest counter battens.

Also I was wondering - can you use modern ridge tiles (the mechanically fixed ones) rather than the clay ones - it will suit me since we are only doing the front plain now and will be doing the rear roof when the dormer is complete - which will be a while down the road? For ease of removal when we start on the weatherproofing of the rear and the dormer.

But I agree it is worth the extra for the clays now - you guys have convinced me - so the small difference in height will hopefully not be too big an issue when you consider the attractive appearance of the tiles when its all finished.

I can live with a few millimeters difference when its 24' in the air.











ps: are these any good?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150m2-Fla...992?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4637e281e8

 

[bigmondy]

Another worry

By removing all the tiles from the front, possibly 6 or more tons, am i risking deflection of the trusses as the whole of the rear will remain fully loaded?

 

[noseall]

Another issue that brings is there will be no draping tollerance available on the breathable membrane. So that's why you suggest counter battens.

Yes, which in turn means looking at an alternative way to weather the neighbouring roofs in view of the fact that you will have no tolerance for raising your neighbours tiles in order to fit a profiled weathering valley.

Lead and soakers maybe?

Also I was wondering - can you use modern ridge tiles (the mechanically fixed ones) rather than the clay ones - it will suit me since we are only doing the front plain now and will be doing the rear roof when the dormer is complete - which will be a while down the road? For ease of removal when we start on the weatherproofing of the rear and the dormer.

You can use a dry ridge system yes as long as the people that monitor the visual impact of a building don't get shirty. I'm not 100% sure but I have only ever seen concrete dry ridge systems fitted. Clay ridge may be available for dry ridge systems but you'd have to check.

ps: are these any good?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150m2-Fla...aultDomain_3&hash=item4637e281e8[/QUOTE]Great for low pitched roofs but I would not use them for your job, no.

 

[bigmondy]

Thanks noseall.

What do you think about striping one side only? I have plenty of struts and collars internally and I installed loads of extras while putting in the velux windows?

Is deflection a risk?

 

[bigmondy]

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk...e030WS8GyjtKR3Ac0fS2v48Oxi2CYwFGHCxoCTWXw_wcB

 

[bigmondy]

Found these and they look good.

I suppose I only need to dry fix them until we do the backside of the roof. They could be cemented in when we complete the dormer. If that it's the preferred installation method of the local planners.

Is the fact that we are going to have to fit battens and then counter battens going to result in a difference in the ridge height between me and my neighbour?