Best way out of a school boy error? Tiling onto PB

[adam81]

Hi,

Just had my shower room dry lined, dot and dab 2 walls, stud the 3rd.

It's not MR. Plasterer didn't even mention MR board.

As yet it has not been skimmed, but the plan was to have it skimmed.

Then I started looking on here of best tiling techniques and came across people saying hardie backers or aquapanels.

To best protect whats there now, can I get a tub of this stuff and paint it on?
http://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/BAWP1C

Would it be best to do this prior to skim, after skim or not have it skimmed at all after painting this on?

 

[flameport]

Better with this: http://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/BAWP1SPK
which contains the other items needed.

It goes directly onto the plasterboard, and the tiles go on top of that, using an appropriate adhesive.

if you don't use this or some equivalent, any water which gets through the grouting will cause the plasterboard to disintegrate into a mushy slop, and all the tiles will fall off.

You do not want the plasterboard skimmed - total waste of money and time, plus can cause other problems if you have large or thick tiles.

 

[adam81]

Right, yeah just found the kit.. added protection again I guess

With it being newly boarded there are gaps around the ceiling and corners, so should I just have him scrim tape and fill these with adhesive, then run the tape (from the kit) over the lot? His vertical joins in the board are very neat.

The ceiling will be skimmed obviously..

 

[joe-90]

Just replace the PB with a backer board. Only about an hours job and similar price. Why mess around?

 

[kjacko]

Just replace the PB with a backer board. Only about an hours job and similar price. Why mess around?

You really think painting on some waterprooofing solution is more messing around than ripping off dot'n'dabs boards Joe?

Strange.

 

[adam81]

Bit more than an hours work in reality and certainly more work than just painting on a seal.

What about the fabric membranes just put this over all the boards? Tape joints etc..

I've looked at backer panels and aqua panels, but with the distances required back to the wall and the mechanical fixing it would make the area very tight for my door to be fitted by the time it has all come into the tray.

 

[jctilingservices]

if you dont want to rip the plasterboards off and replace with hardiebacker boards, why not just tank your PBs with BAL WP1, you can aint it on, or as i choose to do, trowel it on, you get the tape for corners and joints in the kit, i have been using it for years and still rate it highly as i have never ever had any comebacks

 

[adam81]

I certainly do one of the 2 options.. Either the BAL WP1 or membrane...

Pulling them off will be boring, but more than that I don't have the space to build the stud timber now. The shower tray and it's cubicle have been squashed into a 900mm space fit for purpose.

I assume by your name your a pro so if you use the WP1 I think that is all the recommendation I need.

Is it much like spreading grout/adhesive?

 

[joe-90]

Of course what you do is up to you, but ask yourself a couple of questions.

1)If PB is as good as a backer board - why do they make backer board?

2)If you re-tile in a few years - what do you think your chances of getting the old tiles off PB will be?

12 mm PB. 12mm backer board. Not exactly a big job is it?

Never met a pro tiler who preferred PB yet.

 

[jctilingservices]

I certainly do one of the 2 options.. Either the BAL WP1 or membrane...

Pulling them off will be boring, but more than that I don't have the space to build the stud timber now. The shower tray and it's cubicle have been squashed into a 900mm space fit for purpose.

I assume by your name your a pro so if you use the WP1 I think that is all the recommendation I need.

Is it much like spreading grout/adhesive?

yes mate, time served tiler from back in the day lol, 1978.

its basically like laying on finishing plaster mate. its only 2-3 mm depth

 

[jctilingservices]

Of course what you do is up to you, but ask yourself a couple of questions.

1)If PB is as good as a backer board - why do they make backer board?

2)If you re-tile in a few years - what do you think your chances of getting the old tiles off PB will be?

12 mm PB. 12mm backer board. Not exactly a big job is it?

Never met a pro tiler who preferred PB yet.

1) plasterboard is made of plaster, backerboard is made from cement, therefore the backerboard is stronger and is the correct choice for this job

2) slim to none and the best option then would be to rip the wall out, board and tiles

3) You are correct Joe, no tiler worth his salt would opt for plasterboard in this situation

 

[Skimmers]

If its boarded no worrys just get hold of a good primer give it a nice coat of primer first. Then tile with weber SPF or Ardex gear not pre mixed tubes gear