hardiebacker board - skimming and tiling question

[H0M3R_j4y]

Hi there. I'm wondering how to go about tiling the shower area around my bath.

I want to tile around the bath and shower, and then stop tiling after the shower screen and finish with tile edging strip, so I can then paint the remaining wall up to the door frame.

I am planning on using hardie backer board for the shower end of my bath, and then plaster board for the rest of the bathroom.

Can hardiebacker board be skimmed with plaster? Or does it need to be treated first? I was thinking of overlapping the plaster skim slightly past the where the tiles will go up to, and then the tiles and tile adhesive will then overlap the the plaster slightly, keeping it nice and neat if you know what I mean?

I have included a sketch to help show my thinking. Or perhaps I am just overthinking this and I should let the plasterer just advise me on what is best to do?

Thanks in advance.

 

[chappers]

in answer to your first question, yes it can but best to prime with PVA to reduce the suction.
I wouldn't plaster behind the tile, set a batten up the wall where your tile trip bead will sit and plaster up to it then when you remove the batten you will have a nice edge to set your tile bead against

 

[H0M3R_j4y]

Thanks for your reply chappers.

Alternatively, could I use hardiebacker board up to where the tiles end, and regular plasterboard for the rest? Removing the need for priming with PVA?

I like the batten idea, will be using that tip so thanks!

 

[Doggit]

Hardibacker is designed for the tiles to go straight onto, so maybe best to read this first.

 

[chappers]

Thanks for your reply chappers.

Alternatively, could I use hardiebacker board up to where the tiles end, and regular plasterboard for the rest? Removing the need for priming with PVA?

I like the batten idea, will be using that tip so thanks!

yep no problem, but sometimes it doesn't work out with studs.
Funnily enough I did just what you're proposing last week, I could have added an extra stud but being lazy didn't bother and just skimmed over the hardibacker up to the tile edge.
Alternatively get your tiles on with the edging bead and then get the rest skimmed up to the bead, but not my preferred option due to the mess, if you do go that route leave the grouting until the plastering has been done. I have done it both ways in the past but plastering to a batten is the best as you can get the messy work out of the way first.

Doggit the OP was going to carry the skim just a fraction past the tile edge for neatness

 

[H0M3R_j4y]

Doggit - I understand that the hardiebacker is designed just for tiling, I was just unsure how to go about having a wall that is part tiles and part painted.

Chappers - thanks for confirming. I'll have to wait and see how the positioning of the studs are then and make a decision from there, if I have the time I'll put the additional stud in if I need to, if not then PVA it is!

Thanks for the help

 

[Doggit]

Doggit the OP was going to carry the skim just a fraction past the tile edge for neatness

Double check the fist post Chappers,where he's asking if the hardibacker can be skimmed, or if it need to be primed first, but the picture implies that you're view is right.

You've set yourself a tricky problem by wanting to use hardibaker and plasterboard - which I assume is down to costs - so you need to juggle it carefully. if you're determined to do it this way, then I'd add add an extra battem where the tiles will end, and then make the join under the tile trim, even if this means you have to cut part of the tile edging strip off, and then glue it on. You would then tile, then plaster, then glue the edging stip on.

 

[chappers]

Can hardiebacker board be skimmed with plaster? Or does it need to be treated first? I was thinking of overlapping the plaster skim slightly past the where the tiles will go up to, and then the tiles and tile adhesive will then overlap the the plaster slightly, keeping it nice and neat if you know what I mean?
.

Think it's pretty clear

You've set yourself a tricky problem by wanting to use hardibaker and plasterboard - which I assume is down to costs - so you need to juggle it carefully. if you're determined to do it this way, then I'd add add an extra battem where the tiles will end, and then make the join under the tile trim, even if this means you have to cut part of the tile edging strip off, and then glue it on. You would then tile, then plaster, then glue the edging stip on.

Nothing tricky at all you don't hardibacker a whole bathroom if you're only tiling part of it.
the easiest by far is over shoot your hardi set a batten vertically at the edge of your shower tray and plaster up to it over plasterboard and hardie, remove batten set tile bead and tile to it.

 

[vinn]

OP,
Running plasterboard up to cement board is common practice.
You dont use PVA in wet wall situations.
Backer board requires no treatment beyond taping the joins.
Dont worry about the skim going under the edge/trim tile.

Tile to about half a tile beyond the shower tray and run the last leg of tile down to the FFL/skirting.
No battens are necessary - a level & a pencil suffice.

Never leave a cement or a plaster board floating - make sure the vertical edges are fixed to at least 20mm of stud bearing surface.

 

[H0M3R_j4y]

Sorry for the late reply, I have been away for a week on holiday.

Thanks for the all the replies, although all differ slightly in opinion.

So is it safe for me to say that I can use a hardiebacker board all the way up to the door frame, tile one half of it for the shower area, and skim the other half without the need of any PVA or other primer? If thats the case then thats the straight forward approach I was hoping for!

 

[chappers]

Yes you can, but if you are skimming half cement board and half plasterboard I would PVA it as it has greater suction than plasterboard and so the plaster will go off at different rates

 

[H0M3R_j4y]

Yes you can, but if you are skimming half cement board and half plasterboard I would PVA it as it has greater suction than plasterboard and so the plaster will go off at different rates

Ok thanks very much for the help everyone!