Best way to extend freezer cable

[TanDiy]

Hi, just replaced built under fridge and freezer with freestanding units. The power cables run through a hole in the left hand cabinet to to a double plug and socket but the cable on the freezer is not long enough so I need to extend it. I just wondered how best to do this as there is not room to install another mains socket behind the freezer itself. Also, I don't think I can easily replace the whole flex.

Option 1: extend the cable using an inline connection box. I could maybe attach this to the underside of the side cabinet to keep it off the floor and away from any potential water leak?

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Option 2: make up an extension lead with a single socket. Maybe the connection would be better via a plug and socket rather than connection terminals in option 1 above.

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Maybe there is a better way. I just want it to be safe. Thanks for your help

 

[JohnW2]

Option 1: extend the cable using an inline connection box. I could maybe attach this to the underside of the side cabinet to keep it off the floor and away from any potential water leak?

If, as you say, you cannot easily replace the whole flex (which would clearly be the ideal solution), then I think the above would be fine - particularly if, as you suggest, you take steps to minimise the risk of the connector getting wet.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Astra99]

If using an inline connection box, you will need to be sure it is rated for the current the freezer draws, and the cables will fit the box. The ones most readily available are only rated at 3 or 5A, and are often used for extending the flexes on standard and table lamps. Your freezer may be 10A or more.

 

[Steve]

A freezer usually only draws a couple of amps while running, but some do pull over 13 amps on startup - my mums lights used to dim when her fridge freezer kicked in.

That said, you should try to source a connector rated at 13 amps as this is probably what the fuse in the plug is.

If all else fails an IP rated junction box with glands would work!

 

[JohnW2]

If using an inline connection box, you will need to be sure it is rated for the current the freezer draws, and the cables will fit the box. The ones most readily available are only rated at 3 or 5A, and are often used for extending the flexes on standard and table lamps. Your freezer may be 10A or more.

The photo linked by the OP appears to be of a 13A one available from TLC ( (click here) ), which I would call fairly 'readily available'!

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

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That's not how the instructions tell you to put images in your post.

 

[ericmark]

I have just replaced my freezer and the socket is very hard to reach so I used an extension lead so I can quickly unplug if required.

When the old one when wrong it started making some very bad noises and I would faced with removing a safety screw that stopped a unit from falling over and emptying the unit of cook books before I could unplug or switch off whole ring. Hence now extension lead with plug.

However the manufactures instructions do state you must not use an extension lead.

As to power used I on getting new fridge/freezer and new freezer measured the power used so in 5 years time I have data to compare to so I will know if there is any insulation failure.

Both have inverter drives and the power does fluctuate a bit but around the 60W mark for run and 120W mark for auto de-frost there seems to be very little extra start current taken. With the older non inverter drive the max on power meter did show 720W with one and 2260W with the other one tested although with the latter I wonder if I zeroed the meter fully before the test?

With older freezers there is a overload built into the freezer so if there is a power cut for a short time and the freezer tries to restart while there is still pressure in the pipes this will open and close again latter when the pressure has reduced. Running a freezer from a long extension lead with the volt drop that lead will have could mean the overload would operate more than it should and could over time damage the device. Hence why instructions say don't use an extension lead. With a short lead there will be no volt drop to talk about so no problem.

I will guess the instruction on my freezer not to use an extension lead is historic and the manufacturer has just not bothered to remove it when they went to inverter drive.

There are it seems two very different types of inverter drives on freezers. Mine is simply to remove the need for the overload used in the older freezers and instead use a three phase motor with a soft start. More complex freezers alter the speed of the motor in a similar way to altering flame size in modern central heating boiler.

The other advantage is noise. The old fridge/freezer did rattle some what both at start and stop. New one is just a whisper in comparison.

So either method would work, personally I don't like cutting of the moulded plug so would use a short extension.