Boiler in "Manual Mode"

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Edinburgh
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United Kingdom
Can anyone help?

BTW - I am proficient enough when it comes to electrics to know to isolate the boiler and all associated equipment before doing anything.

We had a engineer look at our electric boiler before xmas as we had no hot water or central heating. I'm not sure what the heck he has done but he told us he has put the boiler onto "manual mode so at least we have hot water and heating". Well, the issue now is the boiler seems to be working 24hours a day. Its ignoring the timer in the kitchen and the thermostat in the hall.

I'm not sure he had the front of the boiler off whilst he was here to be honest, but the boiler is an "ACV E-tech W 15" - http://www.acv.com/int-en/03_04/172/app.rvb

Attached are some pics of the complete set-up, including with the front cover off.

Can anyone help me return my boiler back to "normal mode".

Here's the link to some pics: http://www.diynot.com/network/davidlough/albums/23443

Thanks
 
The relay is missing from the socket - where is it, was it faulty, call the guy and find out, the auto controls will not work unless a relay is fitted and tested to see if there is a fault.
 
The relay is missing from the socket - where is it, was it faulty, call the guy and find out, the auto controls will not work unless a relay is fitted and tested to see if there is a fault.

The problem I have is I don't have his number. He came as a subcontractor to a firm I found online but I refuse to go through them again because they're not cheap.

I don't think there is anything missing, he didn't take anything with him. Where do you think a relay is missing from? Might it be to do with the loose cables to the left?
 
There is an 11 pin relay base in your control panel similar to this -->

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/11-pins-relay-base-PF083A_258907602.html

It normally would have an 11 pin relay module plugged into it similar to this-->

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/11-PIN-Relay-60-13-General_929155918.html

The relay would control the power switching via the clock or stat.

The relay may not have been faulty, just removed/bypassed to enable direct control, there's a couple of links lying loose at the base etc'.

You need a competent electrician to check the connections and switching arrangement.
 
The "missing" relay seems to be for something called DWL whatever that is, so I dont think its needed, as already said you need an electrician to see what the other bloke has done, have you checked to see if he has latched the zone valves open ? might be nothing to do with the boiler and here is better link to your boiler.

http://www.acv.com/int-en/06_40/18/app.rvb
 
The "missing" relay seems to be for something called DWL whatever that is, so I dont think its needed, as already said you need an electrician to see what the other bloke has done, have you checked to see if he has latched the zone valves open ? might be nothing to do with the boiler and here is better link to your boiler.

http://www.acv.com/int-en/06_40/18/app.rvb[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the link! Can you point out where the "zone valves" would be on my images? That's the thing, I'm fairly certain he didn't take the cover off the boiler.
 
I'm a bit puzzled, because you seem to have a lot more control terminals in your boiler (30?) than the 15 shown on pages 14 & 15 of the manual you posted, and I can't see your photo clearly enough to identify any of their numbers.

According to your manual, terminals 5 through 8 are the control terminals for the programmer / timeswitch contacts and the room thermostat. Have any of these been bypassed by wiring links across them? The manual posted by picasso uses different terminals though 10 to 13, so you will need to identify which apply in your case.

If you are sure the cover hasn't been taken off the boiler, these wires could be linked where they terminate at the room thermostat or programmer.
 

So the bottom left one was set to manual - soon as I switched it to automatic, problem solved....

Now I'm back to square one before the engineer came out.

The heating and hot water can be a little temperamental, i.e. either can be set to on (either on, manual, or +1hr) on the kitchen wall programmer, and the boiler switches light up to indicated things are working, but no heat is produced.

This is temperamental 3/4 of the time it is fine, the other 1/4 it doesn't work. The engineer seemed to think the expansion vessel above the tank was blown/shot/whatever (this was why he was supposed to call back) - is this causing the problem, or is it something else?

Any ideas anyone?
 

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