Boiler Not Heating the Hot Water Properly

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I'm having ongoing issues with my boiler heating water...

I have an Open Vented system with the Cold Water Tank and F&E Tank in the loft, the Hot Water cylinder in the Airing Cupboard and a floor standing Potterton Promax FSB 30 HE Boiler in the Kitchen.

The boiler is set to come on for twenty minutes each morning to heat the water. Usually this works as expected and I hear the boiler come on and the pipes knock for around two minutes (which I assume is the pipes expanding slightly, they've always done that). Then everything settles down, the boiler runs quietly and I have piping hot water.

Recently instead of the pipes just making a knocking sound for two minutes, they now do it every 15 seconds so it's almost as though the boiler is kicking in, stopping and starting repeatedly even though that's not actually what's happening, i.e., the boiler remains on for the full 20 minutes.

Long story short I have hot but not properly hot water, i.e., I can run a bath using only the hot water and no cold water and it's just about the right temperature. Previously I would need to run a mix of hot and cold water. If I fill the bathroom sink, for a shave the water feels luke warm.

When the problem first started the boiler was using noticeably less gas to heat the water. My plumber suggested having the system MagnaCleansed to clear out any sludge. The heating system dates from the 1970's though every element apart from the pipework has been replaced, i.e., hot water cylinder, cold water tank and the boiler is now around ten years old.

The hot water tank was fitted about a year ago and I had a MagnaCleanse about a month ago which initially seemed to fix the hot water problem but now its back again, this time the energy usage is normal, the boiler isn't switching itself off, it's just not heating the water very well.

The thermostat on the hot water cylinder is set to 65 degrees (as set by the plumber) though it used to be fine at 60 degrees.

The heating appears to be absolutely fine, all radiators (of which there are only three) are red hot top and bottom.

When the boiler switches off after 20 minutes I hear what sounds like a flow of water flowing through the pipes for around 5 seconds, it almost sounds like water is briefly travelling back in the opposite direction, I don't know how else to describe it.

Anyway, I'm desperately trying to understand possible causes for the water not heating properly. The taps are not spluttering so there are no obvious signs of an airlock but I don't know if an airlock could manifest itself in other ways and only affect the hot water?

1. Could there be a problem with the hot water cylinder, despite only being one year old?
2. Could there be a problem with the boiler itself and if so what could likely problems be bearing in mind the heating is fine and there are no error lights coming on?

I would be eternally grateful if anyone can either suggest things I could try safely or suggest possible causes for the symptoms described above so I at least know what I need to do.

Repeated plumber visits don't seem to have identified the problem since it keeps reoccurring.

Many thanks
 
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What timer or programmer do you have ? And are you setting it for domestic hot water only to come on in the morning or central heating as well ?
If the boiler is firing up and running ( burning gas) for 20 mins ,the heat it's producing must be going somewhere . Do radiators heat up during the 20 minute spell ?
 
Hi @terryplumb,

Thanks for your reply...

The programmer is the Honeywell ST9420C (picture attached). It is set for domestic hot water only for 20 minutes (no central heating)... It's been set this way for the last ten years and up until recently has worked without issue providing piping hot water...

Timer.png
 
It could be air lock around the cylinder. Post photos of cylinder and pipe work
 
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Hi @terryplumb,

Thanks for your reply...

The programmer is the Honeywell ST9420C (picture attached). It is set for domestic hot water only for 20 minutes (no central heating)... It's been set this way for the last ten years and up until recently has worked without issue providing piping hot water...

View attachment 320077
Thanks ,but do radiators heat up or not ,when only domestic hot water is selected ?
 
Hi @danfre,

Photos attached, let me know if they show all that you need and if not I'll take some more...

Cylinder.png
 
Thanks ,but do radiators heat up or not ,when only domestic hot water is selected ?
Hi @terryplumb,

Apologies, no the radiators don't heat up when only domestic water is selected. There is a switch next to the pump that directs which is operational (both located adjacent to the boiler). Sorry, I'm not a plumber so don't know the technical terms.

1. I can have hot water only, which is what is set in the morning for 20 minutes to heat the water.
2. I can have heating only if I just want to put the heating on, which seems to be working fine.
3. I can have heating and hot water if I need both.
 
There is an auto air vent ,just behind the white painted pipe. It's at the top of a short vertical piece of copper pipe. It should have a little black cap ,which when loosened should allow air to vent out.
See if the little cap is loose.
 
It wasn't particularly loose so I've unscrewed it a little (see photo).

Should this be loose all the time, i.e., halfway unscrewed or should unscrewing it release air when the boiler is off or would air only be released when the boiler is running to heat the water much like bleeding a radiator?

How should the little black cap be positioned normally, i.e., should I leave it as per the photo when the boiler is both off or on?

Sorry for the dumb questions.

Air Vent.png
 
It should be open a little. If it's tightly closed it won't work. It's job is to let air out automatically. Boiler on or off makes no difference.
Did any air or water come out ?
If they fail internally ,don't work and air will be trapped and prevent circulation in the coil inside the cylinder
 
No air or water came out when I loosened the little black cap. The screw itself is moderately stiff but maybe that's normal as it's pretty short anyway. I'll leave it positioned as shown in the previous photo and see if that makes any difference and if not I'll report back tomorrow...

Many thanks for your help so far, very much appreciated...
 
If it fails ,no air gets out. It can be tested , but probably best left to a plumber !
 
If it fails ,no air gets out. It can be tested , but probably best left to a plumber !
Thanks for letting me know... is there any obvious way I would be able to tell, i.e., when the boiler is running would I expect to hear air or water escaping or would this only happen if there is air trapped in the pipe?
 
You would only hear air escaping ,if it is working as it should ,and there is actually air present trying to get out !!
If the system was drained ,during refilling you would hear air being expelled from the auto vent
 

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