Flow gets hot quicker and is hotter than return. No error messages
Boiler replacement
- Thread starter nairb999
- Start date
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I agree John
Even with the flow and return reversed the red pipe will still get hot first, you need to physically trace which pipe goes where
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How do you figure that out Ian?, if the right hand connection on the boiler is the Flow which we assume it must be since its marked F, dont know if the red marking is Baxi's?, and if it gets hot first then its hard to see how its pumping the wrong way IMO. If the pump is pulling the water from a wrongly connected pipe (to the reurn, R) then the pumps forced circulation should circulate it through the rads etc, back through the flow, through the heat exchanger where it will (still) be heated and out the return which should be the hottest pipe?
Tracing the pipes will confirm or not.
Also if the target flowtemp is set to say 60C and the actual flowtemperature displays 60C then flow correct, if the actual displayed flotemp is say 70C then wrongly connected, just another check.
because you are thinking that the pump direction has changed it hasnt, it just means the pump is now on the return rather than the flow, so instead of the pump (circulator) pulling water from the flow and circulating through the system, it is now pumping into the return which then pushes the water out through the flow, nornmally this isnt noticed but on an open vent system it causes problems
No, Ian, I'm not thinking that way, we know the pump direction is downwards, if the pipe above it, to the pump suction, is connected into the boiler at "R" then the pump will pull water from "R" and pump water through the rads etc, into the pipe marked "F" the water is then forced through the Boiler HEX and will return to the pump again via the boiler return "R", if so, "R" will be the hotter of the two pipes?.
Lot to think about going forward and stopping air in the system. Thankyou to all who have assisted
If the cold feed is 22mm (or more) and has no isolating valve between the tank outlet and the main flow pipe then you could just stick a rubber bung in the vent as a very temporary measure to see if you can get rid of the air, the trapped air between the level in the vent and the bung may cause a slight problem but probably not, worth a try maybe?
Cold feed is 15mm
The compression couplings around the pump pipework indicate there's been previous issues. Do not extend the vent into the F&E water. Personally I'd remove the pipework around the pump and make sure it's clear visually then re-run the cold feed from the F&E cistern in 22mm and tee it into the vent.
Great advice. Along the same lines as others.
That's because I actually wrote it yesterday or the day before and forgot to press post, oh well, better late than never
Any thoughts on a temporary fix to prove that going to combined feed and vent would work?
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