Boiler Vent cost

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Hi,

Quiz time.

How much do you think to remove a Kingfisher II RS50.B (old but not used much and serviced reg) from a base cupboard, drill a top vent in the external wall at the back of the cupboard and put the boiler back again? This is at first floor level, so ladder work needed I guess. (reason is, BG made us put a vent in the worktop and now we are upgrading to granite and getting new cupboard doors and don't fancy making holes in them, also the circulating warm air leaves a grey mark all up the wall above the worktop vent.)

As a non-heating engineer my guess is about 3 hours, so about £100+VAT? (so, actually about £200?!) Or will it need servicing / break and escalate to 4 figures... :rolleyes:

This is in Poole area.

Many thanks.
 
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From your description, I can't see that the boiler needs removing at all, it just needs a pilot hole drilling through to outside then a core bit drilling back through, or even from the same side. The vent would need to be clear of the boiler to be effective, so I see no reason to remove it. It's just for cooling as the boiler is room-sealed so it should be a simple job. 150 should cover it.
 
It has to accessible for inspection though doesn't it? If you can only see it from outside and can't see right through to the boiler then it's still NCS.

I think!....??
 
This is a boiler under a worktop so there would presumably be nowhere to drill from inside if the boiler is in place.

All I can say is that we would be quoting about £500 to remove the boiler, drill and reinstall.

Drilling a 100 mm core hole from the outside, about £150 or less if the ladder was supplied on site.

Tony
 
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Ouch. Not being funny but it looks like undo a couple of in and out water pipes, a gas pipe, cable, maybe need to drain the system, then reverse after drilling the hole, which is why I said 3 hours. I know heating engineers are highly trained, but how many hours work is that for £500? I had a quote of £30 for drilling a 6" core a few months back (different property), ended up doing it myself and took me about half an hour including setup and clearing away.

I've got a 1m 12mm SDS bit for a pilot, which should be long enough to run the depth of the cupboard (60cm), then the thickness of the cavity wall. Trouble is coming back from outside in, won't there be too much dust/bits coming onto the inside/back of the boiler which I can't reach? Guess I could switch off the hammer for the last couple of cm. I'd have to look with a mirror behind the boiler to check there are no pipes/wires anywhere near.

Not that fond of heavy SDS drills up a ladder, but for £500 it's got me thinking...
 
Driver the problem from our point of view is that we CANNOT see what is involved so can only imagine what work is required.

Cannot a base unit be lowered on its feet and slid out? This might give loads of room to drill hole.

A few photo's might be a great help visualising situation. Remember it is always easy for you to counter any suggestions we might make. You only need to go to kitchen and actually LOOK!
 
Agile come on you have not long done your ACS so you should be able to give proper advice.

OP you have said boiler is in a cupboard so this is what is classed as a compartment so ONE hole is not sufficient you require one at top and one at bottom of the compartment so air circulates .
As you are on about taking air from outside both these vents need to be 13.5 inches square or 87.5cm square.
 
Ouch. Not being funny but it looks like undo a couple of in and out water pipes, a gas pipe, cable, maybe need to drain the system, then reverse after drilling the hole, which is why I said 3 hours. I know heating engineers are highly trained, but how many hours work is that for £500?

Simple then. Punt around and find an RGI to de-install and re-install, fill, test & re-commission your gas central heating boiler for £100, or just, as you say, undo on the water pipes, the gas pipe and cut the cable. This will save you considerable time that an RGI might waste by draining & isolating services.
 

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