Surely that should be any metalwork which IS connected to earth, i.e. IS an e-c-p?So if you have any metal work in a house that could possibly connect to true earth, it must be bonded to the neutral/earth path.
Shouldn't you test for that and then see if main equipotential bonding is needed rather than bond and see if the bonding worked?
What about a metal shelf bracket securely fixed to the timber, i.e. not extraneous - would you bond that?In some houses it might be impossible that the central heating can come into contact with true earth, I'm thinking a completely wooden house and all the pipework securely fixed to the timber ie not extraneous. But you still have to ensure that it is ALL at neutral/earth potential.
You have bare copper pipes embedded in concrete?My house has a concrete floor (true earth) and some of the pipes run in the screed ie they are extraneous.
What about a metal door handle securely fixed to a wooden door, would you bond that?And the same applies to any metal services or structure.
So what happens when you've bonded something which was not an extraneous-conductive-part, i.e. was not at local true earth, and then you get a neutral break, and your nearest PME tie-down is a little way off, so your installation earth is not at local true earth either. Have you not, by bonding, created a potential difference between some exposed metal and local true earth when if you hadn't bonded there would have been no PD?And that is why in ANY building you bond all metalwork and then test to prove it is bonded. And thats what I have always done and will continue to do and as previuosly stated that is what every consiultant I have worked for specifies and contractors comply - and I assure you the larger contractors will not do anything unless they have to do
