Bonkers Kitchen wiring

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Leicestershire
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So I’m into the new house, the one I’ve got the new RCBO board for and what fun I’m having discovering the current writing state.

Thought the kitchen would be good, after all how hard can it be……

Soo
I’ve got accessories on the downstairs ring final.
I’ve got accessories on the upstairs ring final.
Oven was plugged in, it’s a circa 1990 2.3kw job so wasn’t unsafe, just garbage.

Couldn’t find the 4/6mm cooker feed to start with, wasn’t sure it was fused, it’s fused, popped fuse (old Hager cartridge style board) expecting something with a high draw to be connected to it. Checked the electric shower just in case….. not that.
Oh hold on the fridge light has gone out… yep the 4/6mm feed from the board is powering the fridge and the ignition for the hob. I’d call that marginally over rated.

Wish me luck………

Floor partially up in 2 bedrooms already, looks like the bathroom needs a couple of boards lifting as well. Yay.

I’ll be ripping the kitchen out fitting/making good on a discrete kitchen ring and rerouting the 4/6mm for the double oven that’s being fitted @ around 4kw.

There is a question here.
I’ve got a 25mm gap between the block work and the plasterboard.
For the oven can I use a pattress box with a cooker outlet? Pattress will be fixed to the block work but is there any problem with it sitting proud? I’m not going to go with an integrated socket outlet so it’ll just be the oven.

Cheers
Lee
 
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Don't see any problems with it sitting proud. Most of the old style cooker switches are fully proud.
Regulation wise there is nothing stopping you from sinking it part way in and part way out.
 
I’ve got a 25mm gap between the block work and the plasterboard.
For the oven can I use a pattress box with a cooker outlet? Pattress will be fixed to the block work but is there any problem with it sitting proud? I’m not going to go with an integrated socket outlet so it’ll just be the oven.
Why do you want to use a pattress box?
 
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You said it was for the cooker outlet, but anyway -

25mm. gap plus plasterboard will be 35mm. Won't it?
 
And there is no regulation that states you need a "cooker" switch anyway so you could do away with it. But if you are keeping it why the concern about making a hole in the blockwork to accept a metal back box?? I would use a 47mm box anyway. Bear in mind there are millions of houses with many millions of holes in brick and blockwork just with backboxes in them.
 
You said it was for the cooker outlet, but anyway -

25mm. gap plus plasterboard will be 35mm. Won't it?
Yeah I’m still undecided on wether I’m going to put a switch/outlet in or just go with an outlet.
Sorry not been very clear, the gap between plasterboard face and block work total is 25mm. IMG_6606.jpeg

Don’t wanna have to chop the block about for 2 reasons really. First one I’m lazy, second one I’ve never managed to successfully chop a flat surface into this kind of block due to its material construction.

Another question. Do we think this is 4 or 6mm?
IMG_6614.jpeg IMG_6615.jpeg
I’ve examined the cable and all I can find is delta crompton basec.

Cheers
Lee
 
I am not sure what the problem is, but -

Yeah I’m still undecided on wether I’m going to put a switch/outlet in or just go with an outlet.
There is no such thing as a switch/outlet. Cooker outlet plates do not have switches; they are just connectors.

Sorry not been very clear, the gap between plasterboard face and block work total is 25mm.
Ok, so don't install something which needs a 35mm. back box.
Jjust have a 25mm. back box and a cooker outlet.

1685356747382.png


Don’t wanna have to chop the block about for 2 reasons really. First one I’m lazy,
Not much point asking for correct advice, then.

second one I’ve never managed to successfully chop a flat surface into this kind of block due to its material construction.
Good grief. Then chop it unevenly and use some filler.

Another question. Do we think this is 4 or 6mm?
Obviously difficult to tell from picture.
 
Thanks for the insightful none judgemental response.
By switch/outlet I meant switch ‘and’ outlet or just outlet.
You’re other responses have as usual proven invaluable.

Given you’re not sure what the issue is thanks for your suggestions. I’m not a fan of the plates you suggest as ramming and crushing the crap out of a pair of 4 or 6mm feeds into a single screw terminal doesn’t fit my ALARP expectations, same reason I won’t use junction boxes.

Cheers
Lee
 
I’m not a fan of the plates you suggest as ramming and crushing the crap out of a pair of 4 or 6mm feeds into a single screw terminal doesn’t fit my ALARP expectations, same reason I won’t use junction boxes.
You do not have to ram and crush; terminate correctly.

Apart from that, there are dual outlet plates:

1685359374579.png
 

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