Bora TDI o/s strut removal

Joined
17 Apr 2007
Messages
2,487
Reaction score
127
Country
United Kingdom
The driveshaft stops the hub from lowering enough for the strut to clear the knuckle.

Is it practical/safe to contract the spring in place so the shock itself can be compressed, tied off so it can lift and clear the knuckle?

The official way is the driveshaft/lower ball joint removed.
 
Sponsored Links
I guess these are the same as the Golf?
So long as you have disconnected the stabiliser, you should be able to whack the hub far enough down for the strut to clear......it can be helpful for someone to assist you with a pinch bar levering the wishbone down though.
I have on occasions slackened the driveshaft nut to allow the driveshaft to pull back a bit, but that was on a Peugeot I think.
Tip - slacken but don't remove the top strut nut before taking the strut out
Use new pinch bolts on the hub.
John :)
 
Thanks John!

What concerns me is bending the driveshaft when hitting the hub. A bent driveshaft will vibrate a bit at speed.
 
A bent driveshaft is the last thing you need!
I think that is very unlikely though......is there nothing on youtube or whatever? I can't recall ever having particular issues with this design, but on some make I had to unpop the track rod end - an Iveco van I think.
John :)
 
Sponsored Links
This is the strut - almost out.

full


The driveshaft on the subframe.

full
 
In this case its time to remove the pinch bolt on the bottom joint, and lever the wishbone down to disconnect it, I think.
On occasion you can pull the hub towards you and disconnect that way but it looks a bit tight there.
John :)
 
If it’s like the Mondeo's, loosening/removing the two subframe mounting bolts on that side will give you an extra inch or two downwards movement. (y)
 
I'll investigate further tomorrow but the strut will have to come off.

I took the n/s off which was relatively easy and that side needs a new shocker. Chances are the o/s is in the same condition. New shocks, pinch bolts, strut top bush/bearings on order.
 
All considered, its on about 3/8" of the strut stuck in the knuckle.

Sure contracting the spring in place so I can compress the shock to give it enough clearance to pull it out of the knuckle?
 
I think you’d have to compress the spring quite a bit to make a difference.....the strut piston is still connected to the top of the strut......I’ve never had to do it this way.
Maybe undoing the drive shaft nut would allow you some movement?
Give us a shot of the bottom joint please.....the joint is parallel, not tapered and the bottom bolt acts as a cotter pin as well as a pinch.
John :)
 
All considered, its on about 3/8" of the strut stuck in the knuckle.

Sure contracting the spring in place so I can compress the shock to give it enough clearance to pull it out of the knuckle?
Did you not try my suggestion?
 
That nut looks a swine....did you get anywhere with it?
Please ignore my post #10, that's a tapered joint after all......I think the other end of it is rivetted in?
John :)
 
Genuine new VW nuts and bolts on order.

This is the ball joint. Apparent the x3 bolts torque to 70Nm + 90 degrees.

Have taken delivery of x2 KYB 334812 shocks although disappointed only was in a KYB box, the other was in a plain box which I've queried with the seller.

Once all parts are on site, I can get to work. Waiting for back plates and strut top mount kits.
 
Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
Sponsored Links
Back
Top