• Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.

Bosch Classixx 1200 - replace heating relay?

Joined
8 Dec 2013
Messages
28
Reaction score
2
Location
Glasgow
Country
United Kingdom
Hello all,

We've had a trusty Bosch Classixx 1200 Express for over 15 years and fixed a few things when necessary (including bearings 6 months ago). It looks like the heating relay is on the way out. A repair man came and tapped the relay it and it worked again for a couple of weeks. His suggestion was to source a replacement control board if I wanted to repair it.

My question - how difficult is it to identify, source and replace the relay for the heating circuit? Anyone done it before? (no photos of the component yet)

I've done something similar in my subwoofer (a relay) and it worked a treat. Obviously a washing machine will be higher power/currents/fire-risk.

Machine is WFO2466GB/07

Thanks
 
You can search the replacement by googling the relay part number or even the washing machine model.

Are you sure it isn't a dry joint?

If you can't find one I'll look at the datasheet of the relay and try finding you a similar one. How many pins does the relay have?
 
Hello all,

We've had a trusty Bosch Classixx 1200 Express for over 15 years and fixed a few things when necessary (including bearings 6 months ago). It looks like the heating relay is on the way out. A repair man came and tapped the relay it and it worked again for a couple of weeks. His suggestion was to source a replacement control board if I wanted to repair it.

My question - how difficult is it to identify, source and replace the relay for the heating circuit? Anyone done it before? (no photos of the component yet)
Machine is WFO2466GB/07

Thanks
It should not be too dificult just look at the relays on the board and make a note of their operating voltage and the current carrying capacity and the pin outs then do a googl search for one. Unfortunately all the spares suppliers seem to blur out the details on pictures of a replacement pcb so I cannot get details from them.
 
Can you take a good quality photo of the relay, both sides of the PCB?
They generally have details on them that can identify them or even the pin configuration can aid that.

Single pole would have 5 pads, double pole 8 pads.

Looking online for the PCB, they appear to be a common single pole "sugar cube" relay.
 
Hi all - thanks for the replies - the time has come to give this a go! Starting to cause problems again. Photos attached.

On the front side, there is a little black carbon-looking buildup (front.jpg). There's also a smudgy looking solder which might've been the repairman from a few years ago (front-solder-joint.jpg).

On the rear side (with the bigger components) you'll see 3 relays (back.jpg / relay-closeup.jpg) - I'm assuming one or more of these is for the water heater. There's also quite a lot of carbon-like build up a coil of some sort (see back-black.jpg)

The repairman said it was the heater relay which was failing. Not sure exactly how he diagnosed it - maybe the longer cycle times gave a clue.

EDIT - added an annotated front image where the relays connect - front-relay-points.jpg.

EDIT 2 - Grok tells me JS1-12V and JS1-12V-F are very similar but the -F might be better/more resilient.
 

Attachments

  • front-solder-joint.jpg
    front-solder-joint.jpg
    161.8 KB · Views: 51
  • back-black.jpg
    back-black.jpg
    137.3 KB · Views: 54
  • back.jpg
    back.jpg
    163.3 KB · Views: 60
  • relay-closeup.jpg
    relay-closeup.jpg
    171.3 KB · Views: 58
  • front.jpg
    front.jpg
    254.1 KB · Views: 52
  • front-relay-points.jpg
    front-relay-points.jpg
    234 KB · Views: 54
Last edited:
The F version just means that it has a slightly different coating on the contacts, while it may last slightly longer for what they cost I'd just replace it with whichever you can get.

Most of the distributers sell them however it's easier for a end user to buy the one from Ebay.

Although you could try redoing the solder on that bad joint first.
Also use a clean paintbrush to clean away all that black material on it else it could cause tracking between pins.

Then if it's still not working right you might look at replacing relays if that's the issue.
The one with the bad joint, given the width of the tracks is more than likely for the heater element.
 
Thanks for your help. The new relay (bottom relay in the second photo) is in! The machine is back together. Here's my soldering displayed for all to criticise:

blog-IMG_20250519_205726.jpgblog-IMG_20250519_205759.jpg

And the good thing about my house is that if it doesn't work, I'll hear about it very soon ;-)
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top