Boxing in Macerator

[sparxy]

Been meaning to do this for a while - after our garage conversion this was one point that we were not too happy about, but after tooing and froing with the carpenter we decided to just leave the matter and do it ourselves. Last winter it froze up, I expect because there is actually little to no insulation behind it - I have some fibreglass which i plan to cut up and squeeze behind it, before I box it in. If this is not the correct forum, please move it, I did think about the woodwork forum but as I was discussing other materials I didn't think it appropriate.

Piccy:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1438196/DSCF3654.JPG (Wooden panel on)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1438196/DSCF3630.JPG (Wooden panel off)

The wooden panel to the right pulls off, exposing the waste pipe upright and the waste pipe stop valve, so I would like to keep this accessible just in case we need to move/disconnect the macerator in future (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1438196/DSCF3640.JPG). Did think about making a panel screw flush to the wall (so that we can paint it), and then finish the right side the same as the left.

I was thinking just to box it in totally with wood, but after looking more closely (and measuring), the pipes leading to the cistern, and the waste pipe, are very tight to the unit (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1438196/DSCF3633.JPG).

Second idea would be to box it half in - taking the wood across the top of the unit with holes for the pipes and then seal it with silicone.

Third idea would be to use some high density foam, or other material, to squeeze in to the sides, top and behind of the unit. This would have the added advantage of more insulation, and ease of removal, but I don't know how well this sort of material would paint + blend in.

What would anyone else do?

More pics:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1438196/DSCF3636.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1438196/DSCF3637.JPG

Cheers, sorry for the essay! Am only getting round to this now as the spiders have started to come in, and they can climb up the internal brick work, and through the hole left! (I also have an irrational fear of spiders... ever since I woke up with a gigantic house spider sitting on my face one morning )

 

[foxhole]

Had it been planned and installed correctly you would not have the problem, toilet is too close to unit, if you move toilet forward and connect with a flexi pan connector then box behind the toilet it will hide everything.This can be a free standing box with a slot in for soil pipe which will lift off for access.

 

[sparxy]

Yes, it would be better to have it pulled forward of the unit - however, the size of the room (and entire conversion in general), means that would not have been possible anyway. We had to get a downstairs bathroom put in for my sister (who is partially disabled, and finds stairs cumbersome/difficult).

To give you an idea - the door is approximately a foot forward (and 6 inches left) of the w/c, the boiler is to your right, and the room adjoining has just enough room for a single bed + walkway. The basin is following the boiler, and then just enough room for a storage cupboard.

If the unit was pushed any further back, it would be in contact with the external wall, and therefore freeze even quicker in winter. Only other option I suppose would be to move the unit to the side - effectively into the room - and run an extension to the waste out pipe... but not sure how this would affect the general operation as the manual does state it must go upright pretty soon after exiting the unit.