It would be interesting to hear the reason for this and to see the evidence.Would you use oe on a Ford ka for example ? 1 of those specific cases where aftermarket are a much better option.
It would be interesting to hear the reason for this and to see the evidence.Would you use oe on a Ford ka for example ? 1 of those specific cases where aftermarket are a much better option.

****. You must be really heavy on the middle pedal...Yes. I change brakes most days of the week.
Pump the tyres up to 60psi, empty the boot, spray some WD 40 on the tyres. Both wheels will lock = automatic pass.but the bloody thing only JUST scrapes through the MOT on handbrake.
I phoned up my auto factor once for a set of discs and pads and asked them what brands they had in stock. "We've only got 'iron back' in stock at the moment" they said. "WTF are those - I’ve never heard of them?” I said. They had just started selling them and when they spelled it out, I realised what they were trying to say. I remember thinking at the time that ‘iron back' is a wrong choice of name for brake pads!My local factors stocks a brand called einbach which are coated discs and seem pretty good to be fair.
Pump the tyres up to 60psi, empty the boot, spray some WD 40 on the tyres. Both wheels will lock = automatic pass.![]()

Brembo pads for me all the way.
And ATE calipers.

Presumably, they only engage if you're about to run over a white person?Fitted National front discs/pads to my sister's 2019 Fiesta
Presumably, they only engage if you're about to run over a white person?
Aftermarket brake pads suitable for the road are supposed to comply with the R90 regs that mean that brake pads have to perform within +-15% of what was originally supplied with the car.I find Mintex pretty good for the money.
Brembo make some fantastic stuff, but I think they're doing a bit of "value engineering" of late. I got some Brembo coated rear discs and pads for my old Alfa. Also a new handbrake cable and reconditioned calipers, but the bloody thing only JUST scrapes through the MOT on handbrake. I'm beginning to think the pads have the wrong coefficient of friction, but can't be fagged swapping them again.
Aftermarket brake pads suitable for the road are supposed to comply with the R90 regs that mean that brake pads have to perform within +-15% of what was originally supplied with the car.
Did you bed them in before you hammered them? You might have just glazed them.
It can be quite easy to hammer rear pads. Overheat the fronts enough that they fade and all of a sudden the rears are doing a lot more work. I've trashed a set of rear pads in less than 40 minutes driving doing that, albeit on a trackdayYes, I did follow all the instructions on bedding them in. It's quite hard to "hammer" rear discs and pads to be honest. It's not a heavy car and the rears have very little work to do.
The Reg 90 requirements only came in in 1999 and mine is a 1980s car. Prior to 1972, there's no legal requirement to fit Reg 90 approved brake linings. Between 1973 and 1999 is a bit of a grey area where the car has to comply (when fitted with the replacement brake linings) with whatever braking regulations it had to meet when it was new. I suspect mine probably DID comply with ECE Reg 13 when it was built, but I've no way of knowing. It might have complied with the equivalent EC Directive at the time, (one of the many amendments to 71/320/EC - whichever was current when it was type approved in the mid 1980s). It meets the footbrake requirements on the rear wheels, but struggles with the handbrake requirements. An extra 15% would turn a very marginal pass into a reasonably solid pass though.