Bricks for Shower Base Support?

[A and E]

New to this, so please excuse if this is a obvious question.

I have a ceramic shower base that I need to put into a very tight space that is closed on three sides. The base is to replace a base that was put over a cemented in heated floor. I have been told putting a shower over a heated floor area is not good, but that is all I have to work with. The waste is above the floor level and drains away (hopefully) above floor level too.

I was thinking of putting the base on a few rows of cemented in 'dense blocks' place in rows. On top of the dense block I was going to put a layer of backer board (suggestions for thickness?). Finally a base of cement to level the shower base onto.

I don't think a wood base would work in what is going to be a sealed in and very warm 'box' without significant problems in the lonf run?

Any thoughts on my strategy would be appreciated?
Cheers!

 

[theprinceofdarkness]

I think the problem will be with the expansion/contraction of the shower base. Its ceramic so it was made at 600*C make sure that either the blocks or the base are sitting on two layers of DPC. This is so they can move independently. Also put a soft filler (silicone goo) to seal edge of base to the wall before any tiling. Again so the base can grow or shrink and not be constrained by the walls.
Frank

 

[A and E]

Thanks for the reply. My brain fart, but 'ceramic' should be 'stone resin'. Planning to use a good dose of silicon around the edges once the base is in and to give a little cushion layer (filler) of silicon between the shower between and the first tile.

Bit confused about were you suggest the blocks or base should sit on a layer of DPC so they can move. I was going to cement the blocks direct to the floor. Are you suggesting putting something as a filler between the top of the blocks and the backer board?

Again, thanks for any help.

 

[vinn]

Construct a simple timber framework to sit the base on.
Tile the front panel/apron. You can vent it, & build-in a front access trap if desired.
Water test the waste and trap before installing the base.
U/F heating will have no more effect on your base "box" than it would below a vanity cabinet etc.
Hot shower water hitting the base might have a higher temperature than any rising heat from the U/F heating.

Why was the previous shower base removed?

 

[A and E]

Thanks for your reply.

The previous base was wooden. It has suffered quite a lot of 'decay' over the (probably) eight years it was in place. Also it couldn't support the new shower base (which had a rim around the edges which called to marry with the edge of the wood). I did try a wooden frame, but after the one I used also couldn't support the base (the rim of the shower base slipped off the frame and I had to remove the entire set up again).

A tiler I used said wood should never be used over underfloor heating only 'stainless steel'. I had never heard this before but it was one of those things which seemed to make some sort of sense. Hence I was wondering if a cemented in dense block with backer board and a 'levelling' layer of cement would work or if anyone had done this before?

An interesting discussion..