Ok What brushes are you guys using for oil based paint these days? I use Purdys for water based but find them and the likes of Perfections too long when new for oil. Never been one to thin paint just to make it easier to put on, yes if it's really gungey but not just to thin it. So what would you suggest at the moment? I tried Harris Professional and it was ok. Got a whole house to change from dark wood to white, so a lot of oil based undercoat to get through.
Brushes
- Thread starter grant.mackay
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I also use Purdys brushes here in US and am quite happy with them. Didn't have to do a whole house tho.
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Yes but i've gotten in to the habit of using Purdys for emulsion and they last for ages. Only work part time now so not getting through the brushes I used to. Of course using them in emulsion or acrylic first was the traditional way, tried these too but found they don't have a lot of body.
Think any new brush is too long when newNice to have a selection of part worns - have you tried binding up from the stock with string
No never but sounds interesting, is it a recognised way of wearing a brush down?
You know it's true what they say, you're always learning, mind you i'm only 64.
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Dead accurate and great for cutting in. Not too pricey either.
I use Purdy but prefer Wooster (also American).
I want a brush that I can use straight out of the box (oil or water), that doesn't lose hairs and retains it's shape when washed. I also like brushes that taper off to a fine edge.
I stopped using natural bristles years ago. I got fed up with snapping filaments etc. I treat hamilton perfections as a good quality throw away brush.
If you find the "standard" purdy too soft then try the blue monarch ones, they are stiffer and better suited to cutting-in emulsion. Purdy make dozens of different filament type brushes but here in the Uk you will only see about 3 different types. Also make sure the brush is dry before using it, synthetics are way too floppy when still wet after washing.
Don't try to break in a decent synthetic brush- It will ruin it. The tips are preflagged (split) and breaking them in will snap them off.
I admit that they don't hold as much paint as a swollen natural brush but I have two arms so holding a tin isn't that much of a chore, besides I use floetrol when cutting in so the paint flows better without thinning it.
I want a brush that I can use straight out of the box (oil or water), that doesn't lose hairs and retains it's shape when washed. I also like brushes that taper off to a fine edge.
I stopped using natural bristles years ago. I got fed up with snapping filaments etc. I treat hamilton perfections as a good quality throw away brush.
If you find the "standard" purdy too soft then try the blue monarch ones, they are stiffer and better suited to cutting-in emulsion. Purdy make dozens of different filament type brushes but here in the Uk you will only see about 3 different types. Also make sure the brush is dry before using it, synthetics are way too floppy when still wet after washing.
Don't try to break in a decent synthetic brush- It will ruin it. The tips are preflagged (split) and breaking them in will snap them off.
I admit that they don't hold as much paint as a swollen natural brush but I have two arms so holding a tin isn't that much of a chore, besides I use floetrol when cutting in so the paint flows better without thinning it.
Recognised and passed to me by late Grandfather . Started decorating in 1920Think any new brush is too long when new
No never but sounds interesting, is it a recognised way of wearing a brush down?
You know it's true what they say, you're always learning, mind you i'm only 64.
It just stiffens the bristles , stops them flopping around
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Personally I like bristle. They have a 'life' in them that synthetics just don't have.
Each to his own though. Don't have any problem with lost bristles either. If you thin your paint properly you don't need additives. If you did - the manufacturer would put them in.
Each to his own though. Don't have any problem with lost bristles either. If you thin your paint properly you don't need additives. If you did - the manufacturer would put them in.
I haven't got the dosh for Purdy's, so have become a fan of these:
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/r/RODSRTRW/
Great for all but the most viscous paints and you can afford a few spares!
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/r/RODSRTRW/
Great for all but the most viscous paints and you can afford a few spares!
If you thin your paint properly you don't need additives. If you did - the manufacturer would put them in.
Joe- i know that you claim to have perfected the art of never having visible brush strokes. The rest of us mere mortals find that paints will behave differently according to environmental conditions such as ambient air moisture, temperature or the level of suction of the substrate. These factors are beyond the control of the makers hence (they cannot add the perfect amount of the additives) thus I will continue to use additives to help the paint flow. I don't want to reply solely on thinners as I don't want to have to apply extra coats. It is not cost effective and the overuse of thinners will impair the integrity of the paint.
Which additive are you asking about?
The owatrol I use when applying the first coat of oil based eggshell over the single coat of acrylic primer on raw mdf. You will appreciate that the acrylic primer does bugger all for the suction. Infact i don't want it too. i work with paint trays because I use Anza pads so it is difficult to say how much i use. If I half fill the tray with eggshell then the amount of owatrol would be enough to cover half of the surface of the paint in the tray, the white spirits would be slightly more and then about 4 teaspoons of terebene to help overall drying times. I vary the amount of owatrol according to the degree of drag, depending on the extremes of temperature etc.
in the past I have tried using thinners only but if you have the interior of a double bay wardrobe to paint then you have to use so much spirits that you end up applying two extra coats.
the floetrol I use in water based paints as and when I need to, probably slightly more is added than I would use of owatrol.
Paints have hundreds of additives in them, such as additives that are supposed to absorb UV light and change the frequency so that it doesn't damage the paint or soaps and defoamers. the only aim of my additives to help the paint flow.
I would never go back to not using additives. they make my life so much easier.
They are one of the best kept secrets.
All this stuff about additives is way over my head. Paint has had to be very thick before I would dream of thinning it. Never been an advocate of thinning paint for the sake of it. I know guys who automaticly thin it without even testing it.
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