Burnt electic shower switch

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http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DVDHCR15.html

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SWRP625.html

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHMK8.html

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yes but a crimp is better and a JB must be accessible for inspection and maintenance as it is not permanent.

Where's my £25?
 
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are you really that stuck for a tenner?

12 quid for the crimper, 99p for a bag of 10 crimps...

good permanent job, tool that can be re-used for other things ( like car electrics etc.. )

or 3.50 for the JB, needs to be accessible, risk of connections losening over time.. etc...
 
Hi there guys, please can anyone advise what mm cable, what rating pull cord and breaker should be used for a 8.5Kw shower ?
 
no, this is someone elses thread and hijacking it is not allowed by the forum rules.. ( see the big red rules link at the top.. )

also, if you don't know then you shouldn't be doing it as it's notifiable under part P of the building regs..

get a registered sparky in..
 
How many times do I hear that people switch the shower on then go and pull the shower pull switch.
They do this so they don't get sprayed with cold water.

However the shower pull switch is an Isolation Switch and is not designed for on-load switching, hence if they do the contacts burn out and take the cable with it most of the time.

Isolation Switch does what it says Isolate, not switch on.

Out of almost all the times I have been called to this problem, the customer has been using the switch to turn on the shower.
 
good point well made steve...

I never turn my shower switch off.. just the dial on the front of the shower..
 

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