Burst of high pressure from hot taps & dripping exterior pipe

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Hi All,

A bit of background. Just over a year ago I had a Megaflo unvented cylinder and Vaillant EcoTEC unvented boiler installed to replace an increasingly unreliable Gledhill Boilermate 2000. We have the hot water on a timer to come on for an hour at 6am, and then again for another hour at 6pm. As there's only two of us it provides all the hot water we need.

All was well until we returned from a two week holiday in May. During that time I had turned off heating and hot water. I turned the hot water back on, but noticed that when it had completed heating the cylinder when I turned on the hot tap there was an initial blast of much higher pressure water before it quickly returned to normal. I just assumed it was something to do with the system not being used for 2 weeks.

However, this behaviour has continued. It's most noticeable when the boiler is actively heating the cylinder and/or it's just completed heating it. Every morning when we turn on a hot tap when we get up, we get this initial higher pressure blast. Same thing in the evening. I reported it to the plumber who fitted it, and he thought it was normal behaviour and wasn't concerned.

However, last night I was outside the house around 6:30 when I noticed water was dripping from the pipe labelled in the attached picture as 1. I went inside, ran the hot water, again had the initial blast of higher pressure, went outside and the dripping had virtually stopped.

I've attached some pictures of the interior pipework. I've labelled pipe 1 where it comes into the airing cupboard. Two pipes connect to it. Pipe 2 comes from the pressure relief on the cylinder, and pipe 3 is I believe the water supply. Hopefully the pictures make sense. There is no water visible or any dampness detectable in the tundish from the cylinder on Pipe 2, so I can only assume the water is coming from Pipe 3.

Our house has 2 en-suite bathrooms. Both have mixer showers. One is a fairly new bar type mixer shower which is used daily, the other is a Mira Excel B (1996 - 2002) mixer unit that was fitted when the house was built in 2001. This en-suite is rarely used.

The plumber came round today to investigate. When he saw the Mira shower he said he thinks this is the cause of the problem. He thinks it's allowing cold water to "backfill" into the hot water system and hence causing a pressure build up, which is why Pipe 3 is sending water outside. He commented this type of mixer unit can be bad for this. I've contacted Mira to ask their advice.

There is no easy way to isolate or remove the Mira shower unit. As far as I can tell there are no valves to isolate either the hot or cold feed. Additionally to remove it will mean trying to cut away at some of the tiling, which won't be easy. So this leaves my only option of replacing the cartridge. But at £130 I'm a little reluctant to do it. Similarly, I don't want to mess around with the tiling, make a mess and end up having to retile the entire thing. Especially if it turns out the Mira unit wasn't at fault.

I'd read a few posts about recharging the air bubble in the Megaflo, but from what I've read the symptoms of this needing to be done often involve water dripping from the pressure relief, so would be visible in the tundish. But this is completely dry.

To be honest I don't understand the mechanics of how cold water, backfilling into the hot water system could cause this.

Apologies for the long, rambling post... but any help/advice here would be much appreciated.

Many Thanks...
 

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Sounds like the bubble needs recharging inside the megaflo.

The instructions for the procedure should be on the tank and there would be no harm in trying this first (I previously had a megaflo and had to complete this every three months or so)
 
As above - as this is a genuine Megaflo you've unfortunately been saddled with their ridiculous floating baffle system, which is supposed to keep a bubble of air in the top of the cylinder to take up expansion on heating, but it's not very reliable so you end up recharging it. It's such a common problem that there's a sticker on the side near the top telling you how to do it. Doing this will cure your problem

It's a bit concerning that your plumber doesn't know about this, and I'm even more concerned that your Megaflo's safety controls haven't been installed correctly, suggesting that he really doesn't know what he is doing. Was he G3-registered to install unvented cylinders (did you receive a Building Regulations Compliance certificate from your local authority for the installation?)

Recharging the air gap as per the instructions on the side will cure your immediate problem, but you really need to get a competent G3-qualified installer to address the significant issues with the installation at the earliest possible opportunity
 
The plumber did say he was going to come back today to re-charge the bubble. I didn't think it was that as I'd seen comments that a symptom of that needing to be done was dripping visible in the tundish, and that's completely dry.

The plumber is fully qualified, and I did receive the relevant documentation from the local authority for the installation of the cylinder and boiler.

Can I ask what other significant issues you've noticed that need rectification? If there's additional issues then I'd like to get them resolved.

Many thanks...
 
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You're not getting water through the tundish because the safety valve that's supposed to be connected to it, isn't.

To rectify this, the incoming mains needs to be extended up to the height of the secondary safety valve at the top of your Pipe 2, and the control/safety group currently fitted at floor level needs to be moved into this position. The outlet from the safety valve on the control group then needs to be plumbed into Pipe 2, above the tundish

On the outside wall, it's not permitted to have the pipe discharging at high level as it does now. In a serious fault condition, this could discharge water at 90-95°C onto whoever is standing below it. It needs to be extended down the wall, terminating 100mm off the ground and covered by an appropriate safety cage

I'd also want the wiring checking to ensure that the thermal cutout for the boiler has been correctly connected
 
Last edited:
Thanks for this. Is anyone able to recommend someone in the Welwyn Garden City/Hatfield area who could take a look at this?

As for the wiring, I remember I did raise a question on here about it last year, went on holiday and forgot to send a response to a question asked. I'll find the post and resurrect it.
 
The plumber is fully qualified, and I did receive the relevant documentation from the local authority for the installation of the cylinder and boiler.

Qualified but incompetant if the postings are accurate. How many other G3 qualification holders are doing similar poor quality and potentially hazardous ( but self assessed as safe ) installations. ?

That's relatively normal

Only "normal" in pressurised systems and even then it should not be normal. Why would the pressure in the cylinder noticably reduce when a small qauntity of water is drawn off ?

It doesn't happen with a vented cylinder ( pressurised only by the head of water in the storage tank in the loft.
 
Thanks for this. Is anyone able to recommend someone in the Welwyn Garden City/Hatfield area who could take a look at this?

As for the wiring, I remember I did raise a question on here about it last year, went on holiday and forgot to send a response to a question asked. I'll find the post and resurrect it.
@Dan Robinson is local to you and his work is excellent - give him a call. His company is Jennings Heating

Note that Bernardgreen posting above holds massive and unfounded prejudice against unvented systems generally, and should be ignored
 
and even then it should not be normal.

You have been told repeatedly, that you should not be commenting on things you clearly have no idea on.

Note that Bernardgreen posting above holds massive and unfounded prejudice against unvented systems generally, and should be ignored

His continued ramblings on matters outside his tiny little world are very frustrating for those of us trying to give correct advice on.
 
Note that Bernardgreen posting above holds massive and unfounded prejudice against unvented systems generally, and should be ignored
Note also that several requests for reason(s) to justify the complexity of un-vented cylinders and the resultant need for routine inspection of the necessary safety systems by a qualified engineer have only produced one reason. That one reason is that un-vented cylinders do not require a header tank and thus the risk of animals / rodents drowning in that tank does not exist with an un-vented cylinder.

It seems that most of the plumbers and heating engineers on this forum have a prejudice against vented cylinders and object to anyone putting the opposing case.
 
That one reason is that un-vented cylinders do not require a header tank and thus the risk of animals / rodents drowning in that tank does not exist with an un-vented cylinder.

It seems that most of the plumbers and heating engineers on this forum have a prejudice against vented cylinders and object to anyone putting the opposing case.

Twaddle.

Potable water everywhere, silent operation, reduced pipework, better hot water performance etc are all benefits, amongst a few others you've been told several times, but never bring up in your tedious ill-informed contributions.

None of us have a prejudice against open vented, but we do understand how both systems work and advise accordingly.
 
In places where the quality of piped water is doubtful, it can be safer to drink water from the hot taps where it has been pasteurised by heat and stored hot.
 
Drinking water taken from a hot tap ? Water that has been in a tank for an undefinable time. Maybe warm enough for long enough for bacterial growth to occur.
Oh please do tell us more about how bacteria can grow in water stored at 60°C
 

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