Caliper mounting thread repair advice

[johnny2007]

Hi everyone, I was going to change pads on my focus 2004 and when I unbolted the bottom guide pin of the caliper it felt like it was loose.
Once the caliper was out of the way I tried the bolt and in fact, it just turned around endlessly.
It's the actual mounting hole that's stripped, the bolt is ok.
Looking for a solution I saw on other forums people recommending helicoil or a repair kit like this one

16PC Brake Caliper Thread Repair Kit M9 X 1.25mm with Alignment Guides | 3512 | eBay UK

Description 16pc Brake Calliper Guide Thread Repair Kit with Titanium coated core drill Tap and 10 threaded inserts. Applicable to Volkswagen - Golf MKIV / Beetle Seat - Exeo Estate ST 170 Ford - Focus | C-Max Vauxhall - Astra-G

www.ebay.co.uk

Or, I was thinking of a guide pin of same size but with an M10 thread instead of M9 and tap the hole to that size (can I keep it dead straight?)

What do you think is the best solution?
Changing the whole hub is out of the question, it would mean scrap the car.
Thanks

 

[johnny2007]

 

[Burnerman]

I'd be inclined to give the Neilsen kit a go, presumably the spline nut threads are the same as original and the insert is pushed through from the back?
It looks like a perfectly good repair although I've never done one.
John

 

[johnny2007]

I'd be inclined to give the Neilsen kit a go, presumably the spline nut threads are the same as original and the insert is pushed through from the back?
It looks like a perfectly good repair although I've never done one.
John

Thanks.
Surely you've come across such disaster.
What have you done?
Changed the whole hub???

 

[robinbanks]

Considered sourcing a pin with a longer threaded section (or longer pin section and lathe it down) and pass it all the way through/put a nut on the back?

But what's another hub from a scrappie cost? 30 quid?

 

[Mottie]

Thanks.
Surely you've come across such disaster.
What have you done?
Changed the whole hub???

I have, several times. Drill out, tap and helicoil.

 

[Belle427]

Im of the opinion that when its brakes involved then replace the carrier.
I have had very little experience with inserts but have heard timeserts are the ones to go for for strength.

 

[johnny2007]

Considered sourcing a pin with a longer threaded section (or longer pin section and lathe it down) and pass it all the way through/put a nut on the back?

But what's another hub from a scrappie cost? 30 quid?

That would definitely work, but do these pins with longer thread exist?
Having it made to measure it's impossible in London.
Hub wouldn't cost much, but I wouldn't do the job myself and any mechanic would charge in labour more than the car is worth (I paid £500 for it 2 years ago)

 

[johnny2007]

I have, several times. Drill out, tap and helicoil.

Any trick to drill and tap perfectly straight?
Or is there a little leeway in the caliper?

 

[Mottie]

Any trick to drill and tap perfectly straight?
Or is there a little leeway in the caliper?

Not really, just hold the drill straight and get the tap straighter!

 

[Burnerman]

Personally I've found Helicoil good enough in soft metals but for this job I'd prefer the Neilsen I think.
Presumably the stripped hole is drilled out to a tolerance to allow the splined insert to be pulled in.....this should grip the forging very well, maybe even better with some Loctite too. No chance of it unscrewing, unlike Helicoil.
No, I've not come across this before but I would have replaced the hub - which would probably need a new bearing also.
John

 

[Activ]

Not really, just hold the drill straight and get the tap straighter!

Use the helicoil kit posted.
Look at the drill bit supplied in the kit. It has two diameters, a starting primary and guide size followed by the required diameter for the helicoil. Thats enough to assist you to drill straight and true for the repair required.
If its a good quality drill bit and you're using a good quality drill it'll be done in no time.

 

[johnny2007]

Personally I've found Helicoil good enough in soft metals but for this job I'd prefer the Neilsen I think.
Presumably the stripped hole is drilled out to a tolerance to allow the splined insert to be pulled in.....this should grip the forging very well, maybe even better with some Loctite too. No chance of it unscrewing, unlike Helicoil.
No, I've not come across this before but I would have replaced the hub - which would probably need a new bearing also.
John

Is Nielsen a good brand or they're all the same?
I can get a very similar kit of another brand next day delivery, emailed the seller

Brake Caliper Slide Bolt Thread Repair Kit Guide Bolt Calliper Core Drill | eBay UK

Includes 10 fully threaded, splined inserts, designed specifically for brake calliper slide / guide bolts. They provide a full thread and can be used with thread lock if needed - standard spring type thread repair inserts / helicoils are not suitable for repairing calliper slide / guide bolts.

www.ebay.co.uk

But if Nielsen is a reputable brand I prefer to wait

 

[Burnerman]

I think both kits will be much the same, I'd go for either although I've used Neilsen before.....locking wheel bolt extractors to be precise. Interesting that they say that Helicoils aren't recommended here and I thoroughly agree with that.
Clever they may be but they can undo and that's not desirable here.....not to mention the tightening torque required
John

 

[johnny2007]

I think both kits will be much the same, I'd go for either although I've used Neilsen before.....locking wheel bolt extractors to be precise. Interesting that they say that Helicoils aren't recommended here and I thoroughly agree with that.
Clever they may be but they can undo and that's not desirable here.....not to mention the tightening torque required
John

Thanks, I ordered it.
Let you know how it goes.
One more thing, on the manual it says that torque is 21 ft/pound.
I torqued the other side like this, but seemed a bit too weak.
It's a focus 2004 1.6 petrol