Can I join 6mm for oven run

[RobTi]

Hi looking to do as much roughing as possible before getting my kitchen done, so years ago cooker supply was moved to supply bathroom shower and rewired back to board, now no electric shower any more but shower cable is around 3m short of oven position, can this be joined or can I run off ring as gas hob instead of electric hob, oven requires 13a supply ?

Thanks

 

[phatboy]

Its best to use the cooker circuit if its available, and can be extended within the safe zones.

You can join it. If the joint won't be accessible use a maintenance free junction box, or crimps with shrink sheath.

 

[RobTi]

Thanks I won't be joining but will get a spark in when it's time for it to be done but at the moment I can feed a cable into position now that I know it can be joined

Thanks

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Any joint will require to be accessible or made so the joint is deemed maintenance free(MF), however the new MF junction boxes will not do, as they will not take 6mm cable. So it will be crimps or soldering.

If the cooker is gas and only requires electric for ignition, fan and clock, that a suitable fused spur can be taken from a socket circuit.

 

[RobTi]

The cooker is a single electric oven rated at 13a with a gas hob, the joint in the cable will either be in the attic or in a cupboard behind a large American style fridge

 

[ban-all-sheds]

at the moment I can feed a cable into position now that I know it can be joined

Rob, this is absolutely vital:

Its best to use the cooker circuit if its available, and can be extended within the safe zones.

If you're joining to a cable which used to go somewhere else, will it all be in the correct zone(s)?

 

[RobTi]

Hi as I said a spark will be doing the joining, I am just trying to save money roughing it for him.
This cable is a full length from the old shower back to the board with a 45a breaker.

The join will either be in the floored attic space or in a disused cupboard that has an American fridge sitting in front of it next to the position of the said oven

Thanks

 

[Iggifer]

BAS means that your new cable must be run in the safe zones

If the cable drop is in the middle of the wall, you will need an accessory to create a safe zone, i.e. a cooker isolator switch. Your location for this is up to you, but the cable must run directly above/below it or in line horizontally from it to be in the safe zone.

I would probably say (without seeing it's hard to say) put a fused spur on to the existing 6mm (visible on the wall) and then drop down to a double socket to feed both the sparker and the cooker, job done.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:walls

 

[RobTi]

Sorry my mistake, it will be run vertically up to switch then back down to outlet

 

[Iggifer]

sounds odd, but also sounds like it complies.

Will need to be RCD protected too, but your electrician will know that anyway

 

[RobTi]

Thanks for all the helpful replies, the reason I asked originally was I was under the impression that you couldn't. Join shower and cooker cables they had to be taken from the board to the isolator in one run

 

[JohnW2]

Any joint will require to be accessible or made so the joint is deemed maintenance free(MF), however the new MF junction boxes will not do, as they will not take 6mm cable.

That's true of Ashley MF JBs, but for circuits up to 32A, Wago 773-173 connectors (which will take 6mm² conductors) in a Wagobox qualify as MF (per BS5733) - see last section of of this .

Kind Regards, John