Can trickle vents be retrofitted?

[r_c]

We have just realised that one of our new UPVC windows was installed without trickle vents, when we did actually order trickle vents for it. I know very little about windows. Is this something the window installer can retrofit, or should a new window be ordered from the factory?

 

[crank39]

Yes they can be, bit of a faff though because in the factory the slot is routered out in seconds where as on site all you can hope for is drilling a series of holes, technically the vents need to be as high up as possible usually in the head and depending on how thick your plaster lines are there my not be enough room on the frame to fit the vent without it encroaching the glazing bead, getting the drill in there at 90° to the frame my also be a problem, it's all a day in the life of a service engineer though

 

[ronniecabers]

As Crankk says .. yes you can , we've done a few in the past . Had to put some in the opening sash due to lack of room in the head of the frame. Biggest problem is if they are old frames with reinforcing in them!

 

[Gazman16]

I always put vents in the sash as there is usually no reinforcing and you don't have to worry about plaster and render thickness.
Do the rest of your windows have them in the top of the sash (opening part) or in the top of the frame?

Either way it should be doable

 

[foxhole]

Had to lower a vent on my window, was quite easy, just ran a hss bit along like it was a router.

 

[HawkEye244]

I fitted all my vents in situ but it is a bastard if you come up against aluminium frame. Even if you do usually it's no more than a few mm thick and easily taken care of via the use of a few jobber bits (see toolstation).

You've probably done the job already, but you must make sure to align the slot front and back. Due to the construction of the window if you go straight through at a 90 degree angle you will end up somewhere on the other side you don't want to be. So the key is to go half way in, clear out the slot as you go, and then work in from the other side repeatedly checking the slot is aligned as best you can.

Some people use a router to do this job but it ****s me up holding a router at that angle not knowing if there might be a kick, so I used a combination of multiple drill holes + a plungecut tool (multitool to remove the jaged plastic parts). A router leaves a less messy slot but personally I don't care as you don't see it anyway.

 

[crank39]

I've always drilled a hole from each end of the eventual slot straight out at 90°, unsure why you say you may end up coming through somewhere you shouldn't but hey ho. I'd then go outside and strike a line between both holes which should be level and then drill from the outside in but only through the first chamber, then from inside I'd finish of between the 2 holes going through all the chambers bar the last, my reasoning is if you drilled every hole from the inside and straight out you'd probably find none of your holes outside were level and would probably look like you've used a machine gun to put them in, probably find that the trickle vent wouldn't cover the holes as well or if so wouldn't be level.

Of course you then have reinforcing to contend with if your unlucky, such a simple looking job Saturday morning job can quickly escalate into a whole weekend

 

[r_c]

Thank you for your replies. It seems as though the answer is yes they can be fitted to an existing window. I am not sure I am skilled enough to do this, but I will ask the window installer to fit one - as we did order a window with a trickle vent for that room.

 

[ronniecabers]

if you ordered it ...get them to do it free of charge, or remake the window ...as its not what you ordered