Can you help me wire these lights? diagram provided.

[chrismdac]

Securespark, thats a great idea, gonna try it now, cya'll on "NEWS AT TEN"..

 

[chrismdac]

Thanks Coljack its all becoming clear to me now. only thing is there is no red sleeving on the blacks. but i will sort that.

cheers let you know how i progress

 

[chrismdac]

ok please view my wiring following cols instructions.

http://www.ldistudios.com/wiring.jpg

The problem is it trips out as soon as i put the power on.

Any advice as to where i cocked up?

 

[mo2]

ok please view my wiring following cols instructions.

http://www.ldistudios.com/wiring.jpg

The problem is it trips out as soon as i put the power on.

Any advice as to where i cocked up?

wrong switchwire?

 

[sparkydude]

yes i know exactly what you have done. where you have connected all the reds and all the blacks together at both light points you shouldnt have. one of the cables will be the switch cable so its not a live and neutral its a live and switched live , like the ones in your switches. At your light with three cables, all the reds need to go in a connector on their own and not connected to anything else. two of your blacks are neutral in and neutral out these connect to the blue of your light, the other black is your switched live which you should sleeve as red. In your second light you have the same problem with only one neutral and one switched live. both reds in a connector block on their own.


Hope this helps

Nick

 

[chrismdac]

Hi again sparky,
Ahh i think i see what your saying here, so the reds should not actually be connected to anything but to each other, one of the blacks is the switched live (presumably i can use a continuity test to find which one is the switched live, the other black simply the neutral?.

Thanks a bunch mate, gonna give it a shot

 

[chrismdac]

Hmmm another doltish question im afraid, gonna get the reds connected no probs, what is the best way to discern which is the switched live? and which is the neutral as there is no red tape on the cables. I have a multimeter.


cheers

 

[bernardgreen]

Hmmm another doltish question im afraid, gonna get the reds connected no probs, what is the best way to discern which is the switched live? and which is the neutral as there is no red tape on the cables. I have a multimeter.

With the power to the lights turned OFF at the fuse board and some one to turn the light switch on and off.

Using the ohms or continuity test on the meter measure between the red and black in one of the cables at the ceiling rose. Operate the switch. if the reading changes from almost zero ( switch ON ) to high resistance ( switch OFF ) then the meter is on the switch cable. If not test another cable until you find it. MARK IT. ( There may be a very small change on the other cables as the switch operates )

And it is NOT neutral from the switch it is switched live, which is the reason the black in that cable should have a red sleeve on it.

 

[securespark]

Chris - gave you instructions to ID the switchwires - you did not follow!!!!!

 

[sparkydude]

Start with all three cables at your first light disconnected. make sure the ends are clear and turn the suply on , test between the reds and the blacks with care as there will be a live one there somewhere. the pair that shows 230-240V will be your feed in. turn the power off and keep that cable sepperate from the others for now. Then the switch that controls that light make sure the switch is closed and using the continuity function on your multimeter prove which cable gives continuity when the switch is turned on and off . the other cable thats left will be your loop feed to the next light fitting. connect this fitting up again and then before powering up disconnect the other light fitting , clear the ends from shorting out and turn the power on again. find the live cable at this one and the only cable left will be the switch for that light.

Hopefully this will complete your mission.



Nick ,

 

[ColJack]

you also have the reds crossed at the 2 gang switch..

the red and yellow from the 3 core should be on one switch, and the red and black from the 2 core should be on the other...

although it will work as is ( since both reds are live feeds ) it is not good practice as the live from one light is then switching on a different light..


sparkydude.. good grief man, you trying to kill the bloke.. testing for live wires like that????

with the power OFF.. disconnect all the reds and all the blacks.. from the lights..
now switch off the switches..

using the meter on ohms or continuity, check each pair of wires ( red and black from one cable ).

none should show contunuity ( or a zero reading on ohms ) but might show a low reading due to other lights in the circuits.. all light switches should be off..

now switch on the switches and test again.. you should get continuity ( or a zero or close to zero reading on ohms ) on one pair of wires..

mark the black of the pairs you just found with red sleeving or tape.

now put the reds together in the block seperate from the brown wire at the light, the non marked blacks into the block with the blue wire of the light, and the black you marked with red into the block with the brown of the light..

the way you have it now, the lights would be permanently on until you switch the switch, at which point you are shorting live to neurtal and blowing the breaker..

 

[sparkydude]

No I am not trying to Kill him , i gave him warning that the cables would be live and anyone with a bit of common sense would know to proceed with caution with live cables involved. simply testing for the presence of a live cable by using a multimeter is standard practice and so would prove the identification of the cables much easier than the methods you have given.

Nick

 

[ColJack]

standard practice for pro's maybe, but this is a DIY dude..

your way does identify the live incomming, but not the outgoing and you still tell him to find the switch cable using continuity.. so why risk finding the live feed at all when you can just find the switch and then assume the other cables are live in and live out.. ???

 

[sparkydude]

I did it this way because if he tests for continuity on the other cables he could possibly get a continuity reading on another cable which would be the incoming cable as it will have loads on it and would produce a false reading , and when connected up would blow the mcb again and he would be even more confused. Maybe a better way would be to terminate the cables in connector block temorarily and then it will be safer testing for the presence of a live cable than just the cables . Admittedly it is not the safest of ways to identify cables, but it has worked for me on many occasions and i have never got a belt from doing it this way . unless you are a numpty then this is the best way i have found of identifying the cables.

Nick

 

[securespark]

That's what you do with the switchwires, I didn't realise you'd taken down the fittings as well.

Here's what you do.

First, put your wife into the shredder.

Next, ID the switchwires. Get a multimeter set to continuity. It beeps when you short the probes.

Put these on the red/black pairs at the ceiling. Next, rescue your screaming wife from the shredder & ask her to

A: stop bleeding
B: stop snivelling
C: operate the switches for you.

You will then tell which of the red/black pairs at the ceiling positions are connected to the switches.