Can't get the rad off!!

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you turning it the right way :LOL: sorry but gotta ask!
you can try heating it with a blow lamp if it really is stuck. not been beaten by one yet and I'm not very strong :oops:
make sure you use a good quality spanner on the nut and something to hold the valve , like a pair of grips. Wrap some rag round the valve so not to damage it, 2nd thoughts, don't worry bout that last bit :LOL:
 
You havent turned the TRV off! With the head off there should be a plastic cap that screws on in place of the head to keep the valve shut. At moment its fully open!

Worse case scenario is drain heating system, replace TRV and refill, adding fresh inhibitor.
 
You havent turned the TRV off! With the head off there should be a plastic cap that screws on in place of the head to keep the valve shut. At moment its fully open!

Worse case scenario is drain heating system, replace TRV and refill, adding fresh inhibitor.

I thought if i turned the TRV to 0 an then took the head off it would be easier to work around, are you sayin it's still fully open??? How?? their was a plastic cap on the other valve.....

Also to be honest while i'm messin with it I might as well fit some fresh looking chrome TRV's....How do I drain the system?? The bathroom is upstairs and we have combi boiler??? :?:
 
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I gave the benefit of the doubt with the TRV! No its not closed. When you close a TRV it pushes the pin down in the centre. When you take it off, the pin will come back up again! whoops! you need to leave the trv on to isolate the rad.
 
You only want one TRV on one end of Rad. Ordinary lockshield on other end. Combi system easier, hose on suitable drain off downstairs, open drain off let water run out. Open valves on filling loop under boiler to refill, bleed rads as you go, downstairs first, keeping eye on system pressure. As you let air out of rads pressure will drop, so keep topping it up. And check for leaks!
 
the big nut unscrews towards the radiator. You may have thought it unscrews towards the valve. Use a big enough spanner that fits well and it will probably come off. If the copper pipe starts to bend, stop work and prepare to drain the sytem, you might have to remove the valve from the pipes and lift the rad off
 
Hi all,

Right i couldnt get that nut to budge on the trv side :oops: , so had to resort to draining the system.....

I have now managed to get rad off so now i thought i might as well replace the trv and the lockshield valves......

Have i now got to cut these pipes? They are 10mm pipes but the new trv is a 15mm, how do i get that to fit???

View media item 9494TRV Side
View media item 9495Lockshield Side
View media item 9496
 
Might of been pointless buying 15mm TRVs, first of all you need to look under the floorboards and see if the 10mm pipe has been reduced down from 15, then you need to cut out the 10mm then connect from the 15mm.

Not really any point in doing [10mm]--Reducer--[15mm] because you won't get the benefits of the 15mm pipe.

If you are not bothered about the performance and there is no 15mm under the floors, then just go ahead and solder on a reducer under the floors to the 10mm raising it to 15mm then connect in 15mm tails.
 
Take the valves back and swap for 10mm ;)
 
Thanks peeps,

I have indeed taken them back and swapped for 10mm rad valves, no trvs for now until im confident what im doing....

I have refilled the system back up to 1.5bar, bled all the rads apart from bathroom as there is no rad just valves...
I have just turned on the worcester bosch 28i, is that all i have to do???

Thanks
 
I would let heating run for a few hours, may still be some air trapped in pipework. If any rads have cold spots at top then switch heating off, and bleed them again.
 

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