Cavity floorbox in a solid floor

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I'm just in the process of having a sort out in the garage at home, and I'm getting fed up of tripping over the lead to my table saw.

I started thinking.

I have a couple of cavity floor boxes in the shed which were surplus from a job a while back.

You know the sort. They are normally installed in modern offices, and have three compartments for power and data.

I was thinking one of these flushed in under the table saw would be just the job, and save me buying a proper flappy floor socket.

My garage has a concrete floor about 6" thick, so I should be alright to cut out a hole and fit the box in. I might line the hole with some DPM, just to stop any corrosion of the box, and then make good with a bit of concrete or mortar.

I think a flush 20mm PVC tube should be fine to supply the socket. I will put an accesible isolator on the wall, as I don't fanck climbing under the table saw if the DOL starter happened to fail.

How does that sound?
 
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Wouldn't the flex get in the way when ripping large sheets down if it went upwards?
 
What lighting do you have in this garage.
You are aware of strobing. ;)
 
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Sounds good to me. A flex from the ceiling would always be getting in the way.

By the way, Rocky, under what conditions can strobing occur? Is it when the rotational speed of a machine exactly matches the 50kHz supply of a fluorescent fitting? I only use fluorescent lighting in my workshops, and I've never seen a moving blade looking stationary.
 
Sounds good to me. A flex from the ceiling would always be getting in the way.

By the way, Rocky, under what conditions can strobing occur? Is it when the rotational speed of a machine exactly matches the 50kHz supply of a fluorescent fitting? I only use fluorescent lighting in my workshops, and I've never seen a moving blade looking stationary.
 
Personally I don'tlike the idea of a floor box directly under the table saw, can you imagine how long it would take for it to fill with saw dust!!
 
as I understand it, strobing can happen where:

the tool is moving at 50 hz, or 100, or 150, or 500, or any multiple of 50

or

if it has e.g. 50 teeth and is moving at 1hz, or 20 hz, or any multiple where a tooth in in the same place another tooth was 1/50th sec before
 
So I shall avoid using 50 tooth circular saw blades in future (or 60 if ever I emigrate to the USA).

My apologies for the double post earlier (computer network problems) and for the kHz mistake (brain going mushy).
 
So I shall avoid using 50 tooth circular saw blades in future (or 60 if ever I emigrate to the USA).
Changes in the number of teeth will just change the speeds at which strobing is a problem.
 
ordinary fluorescents are simply not a good idea round rotating or reciprocating tools.

you might remember seeing older tools with a little workpiece-illuminating lamp with an ordinary bulb in it.

Why not move over to CFLs? Might be less trouble than putting in a non-flicker fix
 
I have a table saw with an induction motor that when off load appeared to stop moving under Flu lights. After several near misses while wearing ear defenders :eek: I changed the control gear in the light to a HF type (note HF high frequency not HPF high power factor) CFL lamps should also solve the problem.

Sailbadthesinner
 
It's alright. I have an incandescent lamp above the table saw. It's a compromise as IP rated high frequency fittings are silly expensive.

Thanks for the concern though :D
 

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