CCN1.....ACS...
- Thread starter Gastel
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You wont be expected to do the purge to new volume regs, so do not light any escaping gas in purge. The pipework will be 22mm and normally the ckr is last on the route so yes you need to purge it will be an e6 meter so take note of digit position and and .010.
You won't be expected to do a purge at all, cos the pipes will all be live. But if you did have to, it could just as easily be a U16 as an E6. If the volume were over the magic figure of 0.02 cubic metres, then you'd be expected to burn the gas (greenhouse bo11ox reasons).
The hob isn't usually the last on the run though in practice of course that's what you'd use, then try to light the boiler until it went.
But the proper answer is to connect a burner at the furthest point.
Since you seem to be getting confuddled over volumes, you have to check the tightness volume (not the same as the purge volume
) is less than 0.035 cubic metres, or you're into Industrial. Anything less than a U16 and that's very unlikely.
As namsag says, CITB manage to confuse everyone by getting you to work out both together, instead of one then the other. Barking.
The hob isn't usually the last on the run though in practice of course that's what you'd use, then try to light the boiler until it went.
But the proper answer is to connect a burner at the furthest point.
Since you seem to be getting confuddled over volumes, you have to check the tightness volume (not the same as the purge volume
) is less than 0.035 cubic metres, or you're into Industrial. Anything less than a U16 and that's very unlikely.As namsag says, CITB manage to confuse everyone by getting you to work out both together, instead of one then the other. Barking.
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Now you've got me worried ChrisR. The FFD check is presumably a tightness check upstream, yes? But would that be downstream of the appliance isolating valve? I ought to know this stuff
.As for the wooden chimney with liner, are you saying it would be OK? I thought combustible material in a chimney was a no-no. I even checked it with Corgi the other day with reference to a register plate fixed to wooden battens in the chimney opening (for a gas stove with a liner). The guy seemed in no doubt that it wasn't acceptable.
N
namsag
Here is one. In a timber framed building when a pipe passes from outside building to inside , what would you use and what type of sleeve
WHat I was told:
Once the FFD has clunked, attach gauge to GV, inlet side , turn off appliance iso valve. Watching the gauge, call for heat/open main solenoid. Gauge shouldn't move but will if there's very small escape.
Chimney - clearance must be 25mm, that's all.
Timber bldg - I have an idea, but I don't know. Have the blue book somewhere!
With such a small volume of gas under test, even a minuscule leak would show up when it wouldn't when testing a "normal" meter + pipework volume. So the normal 4 mbar in 2 minutes allowance can't apply in such a case, can it? Are you saying than any visible drop over (what?) time would be unacceptable?
Weve been trained to check ffd same time as we do burner presssure, turn of iso valve to appliance with gauge connected.......listen for click then open valve back up....if theres a small blip in gauge then ffd is passing, I believe british gas guys called it the blip test.
How do you check burner pressure on cooker?
New one on me. How many blips in a millibar, anyone? And how many small blips to the blip, for that matter?
Sorry Gastel, I'm not having a go at you. It's just the vagueness of it all, which isn't your fault.
Do you mean with the manometer attached to the BP test point? That is wrong surely? The gauge must be attached to the inlet (working) pressure test point, which measures the pressure upstream of the FFD (?) and downstream of the appliance isolating valve. Then a drop in pressure would indicate a leak past the FFD. But what do I know?
On cookers, taking burner pressure is often a problem. I'm told some hob burner injectors are the right size to slip the manometer tube over, but many aren't, unless you have adaptors I suppose. Not many cookers or hobs have a pressure test point at all.
On cookers with flexible hose connections you could disconnect and insert an extra hose with a T fitting with a pressure test point on the branch (someone else's idea, not mine) but I guess most people do what I do - don't bother. But that's not an acceptable answer for ACS of course.
Yes......if the fsd fails gas will pass thru to burner which would then show (in a sizeable movement) on the manometer, this is what tutors have taught us this week.....it saves time on the assessment if your taking burner pressure, you can check fsd at the same time, so were told.
With cookers I would check burner pressure on 1 injector with with other 3 rings burning full rate (If the injector was the right size) but maybe somebody can correct me.
I think I see the logic of it now. Before the solenoid opens to the burners a small leak through the FFD would have built up the pressure between FFD and solenoid (provided there wasn't a pilot light connection allowing the pressure to escape), so when that was suddenly released there would be a blip, as you say, at the BP test point.
It would also ignore very tiny leaks that failed to build up the pressure in time, whereas these very small leaks would be picked up by the inlet pressure test. Maybe the very small leaks can be ignored anyway. Well Gastel, you've taught me something today, though I'm still wondering about the pilot connection - doesn't that stop the blip test working?
It would also ignore very tiny leaks that failed to build up the pressure in time, whereas these very small leaks would be picked up by the inlet pressure test. Maybe the very small leaks can be ignored anyway. Well Gastel, you've taught me something today, though I'm still wondering about the pilot connection - doesn't that stop the blip test working?
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I've checked in my CITB book and both them methods are acceptable.
There is another one though.
Who knows it?
There is another one though.
Who knows it?
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There is a reason for the pilot.......not sure though
The 3rd option is a tightness test at meter with iso valve open at appliance?
See..you do know quite a bit...the impression i get is you have all the info in your head but get a little stressed in a pressure situation.
When its all over you will wonder what all the fuss was about
Good luck
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