I agree, don't use a charger. Depending on the type of charger - an older one will produce a very raw form of DC and the voltage will be uncontrolled. A more modern charger will not output any voltage, unless it 'sees' a suitable voltage from a battery at it's connections.
The DC power supply on my PC is very accurate and precise and it needs to be for things like motherboards and stuff. But there is no way the 12V supply would every charge my cold cranking car battery so it would start the car, never!
So it arrived
But I am now confused as to the plug on it (please see photos)
It looks like an old phone charger or something that would fit my keyboard, never the less it looks like a typical domestic appliance DC plug
The sticker says
Input 100-240V 50mhz 0.6mA
output 12V 1000mA
So am I right in thinking that I chop the end off the connector and wire it into a house hold 3 pin plug?
So it arrived ... But I am now confused as to the plug on it (please see photos) ... It looks like an old phone charger or something that would fit my keyboard, never the less it looks like a typical domestic appliance DC plug
So it arrived
But I am now confused as to the plug on it (please see photos)
It looks like an old phone charger or something that would fit my keyboard, never the less it looks like a typical domestic appliance DC plug
The sticker says
Input 100-240V 50mhz 0.6mA
output 12V 1000mA
So am I right in thinking that I chop the end off the connector and wire it into a house hold 3 pin plug?
As we have both said, they are definitely visibly different - so, in that sense, what you have is clearly 'wrong'. However, whether the one depicted in the TLC piccie would any better suit your purpose (in terms of connectors), I have no idea.
In essense they are similar products, Viz: a 230V mains lead, plastic box containing 12V 1A (1000mA) power supply, cable carrying 12V to a DC plug.
The advertised product will require fitting a 13A mains plug and cutting the DC plug off, the product you have received will require a similar action:
I suspect the vendor has simply sourced an equivalent product from a different supplier.
It's the DC plug which is incompatible with the OP's cameras that is his problem - but, as I just wrote, I have no idea as to whether the 'adversised' one would be any more suitable for his purpose.
The "vendor" is TLC, and the product is being sold for use with a specific alarm system, so I doubt that the DC connector will have changed, even if the supplier has.
It's the DC plug which is incompatible with the OP's cameras that is his problem - but, as I just wrote, I have no idea as to whether the 'adversised' one would be any more suitable for his purpose.
The "vendor" is TLC, and the product is being sold for use with a specific alarm system, so I doubt that the DC connector will have changed, even if the supplier has.
Indeed. I'm not really sure why there is so much continuing discussion about the power supply when that is surely pretty moot if, as appears to be the case, the cameras don't currently have lenses, isn't it?
... and thinking further down that road, I suspect that (if the lenses are indeed absent) that the entire discussion might well be pretty moot because I doubt that there is a significant market (hence value) for old CCTV cameras, even if they are quite high-specedc, if they don't have lenses ?
Just to clarify on my last post is that there are no DC or AC marked up on the sticker on the output or input.
But since as the cameras are marked up in polarity it would be a bit of a gamble to do anything at this point!
I have contacted the supplier and sent them a link to this page and I look forward to there responce in finding out first off why it is different from the photo and second if input and output are AC or DC!
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