Hi All! Had a little accident a few years ago while in tbe loft and put my foot through the ceiling to the room below. This ceiling was beautifully artexed. Anyway, patched it up from the room below (spare room) with a batten, but years later need to return this room to a living space, so got a plasterer to make good the damage - he put a couple of screws into the ceiling and that shored it up. Did a beautiful job skimming over the artex, but just before I was to paint the plaster, noticed that the plaster had cracked along the joint between 2 plaster boards right near where I'd put my foot through. The plasterer had taped the join and everything, but it had cracked along the seam anyway. I went up into the loft and removed the insulation, and there is a hardly discernible movement between the 2 boardsif I apply downwards pressure. So, I've been and marked out on tbe ceiling where the joists above run, and plan to screw some of those plasterboard screws into the ceiling, maybe 2 or 3 either side of the join onto the joists above, all the way across the room. Then hopefully get the ceiling reskimmed., as I guess it won't be possible to blend over the repairs. Anyway, question is:I've bought the special Phillips bits with cup, (after reading on this forum, thanks!) the plasterboard thickness is 15mm, should I just screw upto the skimmed surface, or should I remove the thin plaster around the screwhole and screw upto the plasterboard. ... also what screws are best for this repair job - too many on the Screwfix site to choose from!.... Or should I nail with large headed galvanised nails... the Screwfix ones don't seem to have a large head. Sorry its a bit long-winded but wanted to explain the back story.... Thanks!
Ceiling crack returned after replastering.
- Thread starter nicam49
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Hi,
Only a DIY'er, but I would have a go with some fillers first.
As you suggest, put a few more screws (don't use nails) up into the joists and maybe into a thin offcut of something like OSB laying over the joint.
I would use filler over the screws and would enlarge the crack slightly, to a 'V' shape and fill with some flexible sealant (Toupret Fibacryl or a hybrid?)
The benefit is, if this works, it saves you time, money and effort; but even if it doesn't, you could reskim at a later date anyway.
I hope that gives you some ideas
Only a DIY'er, but I would have a go with some fillers first.
As you suggest, put a few more screws (don't use nails) up into the joists and maybe into a thin offcut of something like OSB laying over the joint.
I would use filler over the screws and would enlarge the crack slightly, to a 'V' shape and fill with some flexible sealant (Toupret Fibacryl or a hybrid?)
The benefit is, if this works, it saves you time, money and effort; but even if it doesn't, you could reskim at a later date anyway.
I hope that gives you some ideas
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If you go in loft can you see board join under insulation?
If so stick some 75mm wide strips of plasterboard bridging joint with cove adhesive or easyfill 20. This makes it all one and crack won't come back after taping up. See bellow procedure regarding taping.
If joint is on wooden joist you have a rocker or bender.
Fit some noggings to stop the joist rocking
gaiaconstruction.com.au
I also run a polymer grab along joist either side to stick joist to board and take up any gap vs adding more screws. Adding screws can be a waste of time if they don't pull board to joist. I put a few in and if nothing happens I abandon that idea.
You can also add some 75mm x 50mm timber across several joists with long screws as fixing will spread weight if stood on vs the joist flexing which happens sometimes.
Re crack
Tungsten scraper.
Scrape 25mm wide and 2 mm ish deep channel along crack.
Pva to seal
Troupret powder filler and tape. Cut tape to around 20mm wide and apply over crack in channel.
I use fibre fuse tape as yet to fail on me. You can use the mesh tape as easy to use.
The idea being you want and tape and filler to not be on surface causing a bump. Keep the surface level the same as is by sinking in tape.
It's a simple enough job and cheap for the materials.
38mm drywall screws will do if required. Any.
Here is one I've scratched back ready to tape
I'm doing it all the time
If so stick some 75mm wide strips of plasterboard bridging joint with cove adhesive or easyfill 20. This makes it all one and crack won't come back after taping up. See bellow procedure regarding taping.
If joint is on wooden joist you have a rocker or bender.
Fit some noggings to stop the joist rocking
Essential Guide to Builders' Jargon - Gaia Construction Pty Ltd
We explain some common builders' jargon so that you'll know exactly what's being discussed with your builder & your home will be exactly what you’re after.
gaiaconstruction.com.au
You can also add some 75mm x 50mm timber across several joists with long screws as fixing will spread weight if stood on vs the joist flexing which happens sometimes.
Re crack
Tungsten scraper.
Scrape 25mm wide and 2 mm ish deep channel along crack.
Pva to seal
Troupret powder filler and tape. Cut tape to around 20mm wide and apply over crack in channel.
I use fibre fuse tape as yet to fail on me. You can use the mesh tape as easy to use.
The idea being you want and tape and filler to not be on surface causing a bump. Keep the surface level the same as is by sinking in tape.
It's a simple enough job and cheap for the materials.
38mm drywall screws will do if required. Any.
Here is one I've scratched back ready to tape
I'm doing it all the time
Last edited:
Thanks Both! Appreciate your time and advice
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Rip the fibre tape out and replace it with paper tape look in my album there are some pics of me doing this about 8 years ago and no cracks have come back
Hi Wayners! Thanks for your advice! I managed to buy a scraper like yours from Brewers Decorators Centre, with a triangular blade, and fitted noggins and screwed up into them and into the joists. Used the fibafuse tape then filled with Troupret filler. Now a question about that filler: Can you 'polish' it similar to finishing plaster so you get a very smooth surface prior to paint or just rub it level and smooth with an abrasive, maybe wet and dry ? Thanks for your advice and pics! - getting that particular scraper locally was a bonus - all other scrapers were the 2 inch wide variety which would take an age to fill!
Some cracks will never go, depending how the moron tackers fixed the boards. I've repaired ceilings that have had the boards joined right on a pair of floor joists, that moved differently. This danger area should have been carried by the board span - all day and twice on Sundays.
Ended up removing a section of ceiling and re-boarding, to cure.
Ended up removing a section of ceiling and re-boarding, to cure.
So a reskim of the entire ceiling then?
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