Central heating Pump siezed.

Joined
22 Jan 2009
Messages
203
Reaction score
8
Location
Aberdeenshire
Country
United Kingdom
So, after a drain down and re-fill I worked on bleeding the system.

i bled the pump and switched on the heating. the pump appeared to be sticking in that it didn't come on immediatly. Now it seems to be siezed completely?

I can hear it make a light buzzing but it's not turning. you can hear it turn when you turn it with the bleed screw.

it's a BG branded myson mutlihead II, got a sticker inside the connection box that says 2001.

Is there anything a can try to get it going or should I just go straight for a replacement due to the age?

I loaned my multimeter so can't check it's getting power, but i'm pretty sure it is.

Cheers,
 
Sponsored Links
Can sometimes be temporarily fixed by giving it a whack with an appropriate instrument, but you're going to need a new one very soon
 
I guess what I mean is I think it's siezed, but wondered if it could be something else I don't know about?
 
Sponsored Links
I guess what I mean is I think it's siezed, but wondered if it could be something else I don't know about?

Unlikely, sounds like you just need new pump, you may just be able to change the head if the body is a problem, if not then change body aswell
 
could just be the capacitor worn out, try spinning the pump anticlockwise with a small screwdriver if it starts you need a new cap.
 
ok, going to pick up a 15-50 at lunchtime today decided I would just go for a complete swap just for peace of mind.

do I need a special tool to undo the nuts on the pump?

looks like the diameter of the nut is about 5-6cm, not sure if I have a spanner or pipe grip that will go round that.
 
i bought some valves in case i break the current ones getting the pump off, was hoping to not drain down again as i had just added the inhibitor.

saying that, the inhibitor will still be in the towel rad upstairs as the pump hasn't run since then, i could just close that rad off until the pumps swapped out.
 
so, pump swapped and working, managed to get it off quite easily,

one nut off the pump came loose and the compression nut on the other valve.

Valves were weeping so I just removed the olives and put brand new ones on.

struggling to get all the air out of the system though. Bled all rads, pump, boiler, etc but I get a water rushing sound when the pump starts. I think it's because there is no bleed valve on the HW cylinder circuit.

Going to fit one on the flow to the cylinder. I see compression fittings with bleed valves are well expensive, a conex elbow is 30 quid!

Got a good place to put it by either replacing a compression elbow or re-piping a short section with a compression coupling with valve or solder fitting with valve.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top