central heating wiring probs still, Please help

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so the programmer & wires were burnt in a fire & all i have is some cables & a new programmer. i have traced the cables as far as i can without lifting laminate floors, the picture of the boiler doesnt necacerily represent seperate connections, just the wires dissappear under the floor towards the boiler, the top of the picture is the programmer back plate, i posted yesterday not realising that 1 valve was an actuator. the actuator is on the top circ pipe into the cylinder, the motorised valve is on the heating pipe just after the t to the circ pipe.

i need to know which wires go into which number sockets on the programmer.
if you can help gplease go from left to righ

ie:
L=1
E=Earth <---- think this is right
N=N <--- think this is right
L=3
N=4
L=2
E=3

 
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is this info not helpul at all? im sure securespark can help, you usually straight in there :p
 
make and model of the programmer may help
And of the old one if you remember
may help
 
programmer is just a cheapo one, only wiring diagram with it is:
N-L-DH off-CH off-DH on-CH on

old programmer was melted in fire, not recognisable.

sparky came, ripped it out & cut wires, then didnt come back.

its ex council house so maybe that helps, heating been in 25 years+ i would guess.
 
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sorry cant help
I think heat on goes to the roomstat
and hw on and off both eventually get to the cylinder stat .
But as for the boiler , pump, etc i am not sure.
The E cable on right not sure if you meant it is used as earth or being used as something else.
I cannot see no L+ N+E timer supply either

I only follow the relevant plan drawing and usually work it out from there

If you can get this to the plumbing forum or search there you may get better results
 
Sorry hardbasta, I'm with Rocky, I can't make head nor tail of your drawing.

Do your 2 port valve actuators have the following cables?

Brown
Blue
Black
Orange
Grey
 
Hardbasta, there is a huge difference between spending a few minutes writing a few lines of advice about wiring a lamp (or a consumer unit) versus studying a dodgy CH/DHW diagram, identifying wires and working out where they should go.

You had a fire. You should have insurance to pay for an electrician to repair the system. If you don't have insurance, why should we spend considerable amounts of our own time trying to save you some money.

Sorry, but it had to be said.
 
to kevnurse
Hardbasta, there is a huge difference between spending a few minutes writing a few lines of advice about wiring a lamp (or a consumer unit) versus studying a dodgy CH/DHW diagram, identifying wires and working out where they should go.

You had a fire. You should have insurance to pay for an electrician to repair the system. If you don't have insurance, why should we spend considerable amounts of our own time trying to save you some money.

Sorry, but it had to be said.

very helpful, youre an A1 TOOL, congratulations. Id rather start from scratch than a nob like u help me.

i will rewire it myself tomorrow if nobody can identify the wires, its not in my house. just thought it easier than ripping the laminate up & rewiring with a new system.



pensdown


Sorry hardbasta, I'm with Rocky, I can't make head nor tail of your drawing.

Do your 2 port valve actuators have the following cables?

Brown
Blue
Black
Orange
Grey

1 is a honeywel motorised valve, 1 is an actuator, both are different colour wiring.
the grey from the honeywell valve meets the white from the sunvic actuator
 
Forget the cable colours and work it out.

The heating ON terminal on the programmer should go into the room stat and then out to open the heating valve, brown & blue on most valves. Either via the valve micro switches (orange & grey) or as a direct link it should also start the boiler and pump.

The hot water works the same but via the tank stat.

If your charging for the work I feel sorry for the customer because I get feeling that for no good reason their laminate floor is in for a good hiding.
 

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