CH Pump change - not a 1 hour job!

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I need to replace my Grundfos UPS with the new UPS2 type and intended to simply swop the pump rotor head.

However, after shutting the gate valves (top and bottom) and removing the bleed screw the flow of dripping water never ever ceased. Upon prising the rotor from the housing, too much water seeped out and I gave up.

These valves were only fitted about 15 months ago when the original ball type isolators were found to be stuck solid.

Looks like I will have to drain some water down (a bucket full) to get the pump out in its entirety now. Any other ideas? Thanks
 
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What type of valves do you have now?

Even with a full system drain down its still less than an hours job providing CF is working OK (presuming it's OV)

If it is OK you could bung the feed and vent and snatch the bugger :whistle:
 
Tie up the ball valve in the f&e tank so if the water pours out you will at least know it will soon stop!
I had this problem and drained the tank. Later I found the inlet to the gate valve was blocked with crud which was blocking the circulation. So fit a new pump and 2 new valves and you'll be OK
 
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bungs in the f&e tank, split the pump and drain off a bit of water until the vacuum holds. if the valves arent siezed i would just replace the pump as i never turn off valves anyway. If the nuts are siezed hacksaw a split into them and prise them open but then you may aswell replace the whole valves.
 
When you get the pump off, take the chance to change those dodgy valves - probably Chinky or Iti junk. Get some decent Peglers - pricey but will pay for themselves in the long run.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-pump-valve-22mm/20850?kpid=20850&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping - Heating and Cooling-_-Shopping - Heating and Cooling&gclid=CIXX68K9yMoCFZadGwodAIcCqA

Thanks for that - I changed the valves about 15 months ago (for Pegler Gate Valves) and did manage to 'inspect' the pump a few weeks later without trouble by simply shutting valves and removing rotor head. Now a further 12 months on I want to do similar to replace the rotor itself and can't get them to shut off. What annoys me is that I avoided the cheaper types and fitted Pegler. I went for gate valves because the ball type had seized in service before (albeit over 7 years).
I intend to shut off the feed from the header tank, drain down a meter or so to clear the pump and then I can remove pump and valves together and inspect them. I think I might replace the valves again - the pair from screwfix are cheaper than I paid for the two last time.

IK
 
Pegler valves are normally excellent. The problem with cheapo gate valves is that the mechanism sticks and jams. Your problem is different (assuming the valve is running freely). It may be a solid piece of crud that is caught on the seating, allowing it to "pass". This would affect any valve. It may be worth draining enough to remove, inspect and clean valve seating.
 
Is it Gate type pump valves you have? Sometimes this is an issue with them (unfortunetly no one seems to make really good one - but as said dirt in the valve seat will not allow it to close properly) Would be tempted to try again and really really tighten them shut, if there peglers they should at least be ok with opening again after
 
One trick when closing gate valves is to do it in "little twists" that means tighten and then loosen a bit and usually that engaged the gate further in and so tighter.

To be honest I have had very little problem with gate valves sticking.

Much more with brass rings sticking to steel pumps which I did not fit.

When I fit them I always try to use rubber washers with silicone grease on the threads to lessen the amount that they corrode together.

Tony
 
Pegler valves are normally excellent. The problem with cheapo gate valves is that the mechanism sticks and jams. Your problem is different (assuming the valve is running freely). It may be a solid piece of crud that is caught on the seating, allowing it to "pass". This would affect any valve. It may be worth draining enough to remove, inspect and clean valve seating.
OK I spent more than an hour on it but the new pump is in place and everything working/watertight again. It took just 2/3 bucket of drain off to get water clear of pump (should have done that in first place) and the pump was out in minutes, followed quickly by the valves. Pump and valves were very black so dirt was the likely culprit. When new pump and cleaned valves were reinstalled the valves sealed properly again.
What this has shown me is that despite cleaning and flushing the system two weeks ago, the debris in the valves was still there and took a good scrub to remove.
Thanks for all the comments.
 
To be honest I have had very little problem with gate valves sticking.

Much more with brass rings sticking to steel pumps which I did not fit.

When I fit them I always try to use rubber washers with silicone grease on the threads to lessen the amount that they corrode together.

Tony
Brass Union on steel pump is no problem with regard to 'corrosion' , silicone grease is not required either.
It may be an issue for you due to lack of experience , it was yourself who said you used 36" stilsons on a 1/2" gas train (profile)?:ROFLMAO:
Get your own house in order before putting down others as you do in every other thread.
You are not the experienced 'engineer' that you portray yourself to be.......if only others could read you through the nonsense you post...:)
You seem to be in your own little world.....come with me for a week..;)....although you won't be stepping onto a bus...very unprofessional.
 
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