Change internal (for outside light) single switch to a double switch for external cctv camera

[alba2]

I am in a 7-year-old property. I want to convert a single light switch that currently controls a single outside wall light into a double, in order to switch an external 12v cctv camera.
The exterior wall is clad and the current light switch is on the internal wall directly behind the existing exterior light.
The camera will be positioned just above the exterior light so only a short run of cable will be required and providing there is not a snag, should be easy enough to do.
As the cctv camera's power supply is in the 3 prong plug, I will be enclosing a socket within an IP56 external junction box with the supply cable running from the internal double wall switch.
In the current single switch: 2 browns to com, 1 brown to L1, 2 blues to terminal block, 2 earths to metal switch.
I am thinking I have to loop the incoming live (brown) from (com) 1st switch to the 2nd switch then connect all blues (one from the cctv) together, then all earths together, then brown out from the 2nd switch to the (live) cctv.
I have 2 questions:
1. Am i correct in assuming that the above method is acceptable?
2. How do I wire the new double plug and cable?
Thanks

 

[Taylortwocities]

1. Am i correct in assuming that the above method is acceptable?
2. How do I wire the new double plug and cable?

Yes it is acceptable, but mark the socket as "6amp, camera only". To warn someone that they should not plug a kettle in to the plug.. Note, there will probably be a post from the local idiot who says this is not allowed, but that is on his head. It is specifically allowed by wiring regulations.

Not sure what you mean about number 2. You did not mention a double plug in your post and, Im not sure that I have ever come across such a thing?

 

[ericmark]

I would say in your case blue is neutral and brown is line. I always worry about water outside, so would use a double pole switch, so water on neutral tripping a RCD can be isolated should that happen.

I would consider if converting lamp to 12 volt is an option, so 12 volt only outside, I struggle to see how a socket outside can take a wallmart and have the water resistance flap closed?

There is no rule to say no BS1363 sockets on lights, but it does say the installation should be split into circuits for many reasons which includes not loosing lights if there is a fault else where, but it seems this is ignored as often find sockets and lights on the same RCD.

 

[alba2]

Thanks to both for taking the time to reply.

I have attached a photo of the double light switch I will be using. To ensure I don't wire incorrectly could you please advise which wires ie from the existing single (to be replaced) light switch and wires to the double socket for the camera should connect to which terminals in that double light switch? The photo of the wiring in the existing single light switch is shown in my first post.

I was going to use a double switchless 13 amp socket purely because of the 3 prong cctv camera plug. Switchless because I won't need to switch it off and on, as this will be controlled from the interior double light switch. I was intending to use a double socket just in case I will connect a 2nd camera in the future.

The IP56 external box housing the double socket for the camera will be 8 feet above the ground and under a deep soffit. Is it absolutely advisable that I use a double pole switched socket in the IP56 external box, and if so would the wiring be the same? The lighting circuit I am going to connect to is protected by an RCD in the consumer unit.
Thanks

 

[FrodoOne]

I have attached a photo of the double light switch I will be using. To ensure I don't wire incorrectly could you please advise which wires ie from the existing single (to be replaced) light switch and wires to the double socket for the camera should connect to which terminals in that double light switch? The photo of the wiring in the existing single light switch is shown in my first post.

(That "double light switch" will be [actually] a pair of "Wall Switches", switching both Light and Power.)

Incoming Line (Brown) wire (which should be on the existing COM terminal) to one COM (common) terminal of the pair of Wall Switches - with
a Brown "jumper wire" from that terminal to the COM terminal on the other wall switch of the pair.
(Doing this will provide Line Voltage for both switches.)
Outgoing (Light) Switched Line (Brown) wire (which should be on the existing L1 terminal of the existing switch) to the L1 terminal of the "Light" Wall Switch - whichever one that you choose.

(However, the existing set-up would work if the existing Brown wires were reversed - so,
first check that the Brown wire in the existing COM terminal IS the Line wire - by using an appropriate Voltage scale on a multi-meter, with the existing switch OFF, before you disconnect power.)

New "Power" Switched Line (Brown) wire to L1 of the (other) "Power" Wall Switch.
New "Power" Neutral (Blue) wire joined to the two existing Blue wires in the existing connector.
New "Power" (bare) Earth wire - sleeved with Green/Yellow tubing and - joined to the two existing Earth wires at the Earth terminal on the new Face Plate.

(Also, your recent photo shows that you do have some wiring instructions with the switch - and https://www.bgelectrical.uk/how-to-upgrade-light-switch partly refers.)

 

[EFLImpudence]

IF the wires in COM are the Line loop, then -

 

[alba2]

Hi FrodoOne

Many thanks for taking the time to explain which wires to which contacts.
I believed that was the method but needed reassurance, which you have provided.

 

[bhm1712]

I mean, it’s not against any of the BS7671 regs, infact there is a reg which states that you may infact do this. I have done it myself numerous times, but I always offer the option of utilising a 5 amp 3 pin plug and socket as opposed to a 13 amp socket. This completely helps in preventing any future owner from any potential problems from trying to plug something too power consuming into the socket. The worst that’s going to happen is the MCB will trip or fuse will blow, which if at night could cause some minor discomfort when trying to get it reset. No different than if a failed LED or other lamp blows the trip anyway…..

 

[denso13]

Putting a 13 amp socket on a lighting circuit (especially a double) is bad practice and dangerous whatever the (non statutory) regs say.

You say that often, but if you think the non statutory regs are dangerous in places and that MI's are often wrong, how do you decide what is correct? Do you think everyone should go by their instincts and do what they think is best?

 

[EFLImpudence]

You say that often, but if you think the non statutory regs are dangerous in places and that MI's are often wrong, how do you decide what is correct?

Knowledge. Not saying that applies to Winston, but that is the answer.

Do you think everyone should go by their instincts and do what they think is best?

How do you decide that something you have read is wrong?

 

[denso13]

Knowledge.

But not everyone has the same level of knowledge. I have some knowledge of "electrics" but need to refer to guidance/regs now and again. It was a specific question to Winston, if he thinks guidance/regs are frequently wrong then how does he decide which bits to follow or ignore.

How do you decide that something you have read is wrong?

I check the regs/guidance to confirm my belief, or correct it if I'm wrong.

 

[EFLImpudence]

But not everyone has the same level of knowledge.

They, then, must blindly follow regulations and instructions never knowing which are wrong.

I have some knowledge of "electrics" but need to refer to guidance/regs now and again.

As above.

It was a specific question to Winston, if he thinks guidance/regs are frequently wrong then how does he decide which bits to follow or ignore.

He applies his knowledge and corrects what he thinks is wrong, unfortunately that doesn't make him right.
Few agree with him on his pet hates.

I check the regs/guidance to confirm my belief, or correct it if I'm wrong.

If you do not know, then you will not recognise when they are wrong.

There are definitely a lot of 'guidance' publications that are not correct.

 

[denso13]

They, then, must blindly follow regulations and instructions never knowing which are wrong.

That surely means everyone to some extent, as no one knows everything about a subject?

Reading MI's is one thing, I don't know if I'd quite call it "blindly following instructions".

 

[EFLImpudence]

That surely means everyone to some extent, as no one knows everything about a subject?

Yes, but presumably people do not disregard rules about which they are not knowledgeable so are in the same situation as others.

Reading MI's is one thing, I don't know if I'd quite call it "blindly following instructions".

Ok.

 

[alba2]

I feel that I should further clarify matters to Winston1 re the double socket. Although it is a double 13 amp socket it is only being used for/and because the 12V cctv has a transformer plug with 3 prongs. The double socket will also be housed in an external IP56 box 8 feet above the ground, so cannot and will not be used for anything other than a 12V CCTV.

I have a spare FCU switch which I could put a 3amp or 5 amp fuse in. Would that be a better option than using a double light switch? If so I would appreciate hand holding again on which wires to which contacts. My current wired light switch can be seen in my first post.

EFLimpudence, I appreciated your wiring diagram.

Thanks again to all.