Chasing out depth for cables for rewire

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I'm going to get my house rewired but want to save some money on the electrician so will chase out the boxes and cable runs myself.

For a full rewire (so Part P notifiable) how deep and wide do I need to chase for the cable into a brick wall? Can I just remove the plaster and go back to the brick?
 
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I'm going to get my house rewired but want to save some money on the electrician so will chase out the boxes and cable runs myself.
Just get him to identify the safe zones first - this will be determined by the location of your sockets and switches.

For a full rewire (so Part P notifiable) how deep and wide do I need to chase for the cable into a brick wall? Can I just remove the plaster and go back to the brick?
Your electrician will have specified the type of consumer unit he will fit and how individual circuits will be protected.
If all your circuits are being protected by RCD or RCBO's then back to the brick is okay (assuming 25mm plaster).
If your electrician has specified that your lighting circuits, for example, should not be protected by RCD etc then you will need a minimum of 50mm depth of chase.
 
I'm going to get my house rewired but want to save some money on the electrician so will chase out the boxes and cable runs myself.
Just get him to identify the safe zones first - this will be determined by the location of your sockets and switches.

For a full rewire (so Part P notifiable) how deep and wide do I need to chase for the cable into a brick wall? Can I just remove the plaster and go back to the brick?
Your electrician will have specified the type of consumer unit he will fit and how individual circuits will be protected.
If all your circuits are being protected by RCD or RCBO's then back to the brick is okay (assuming 25mm plaster).
If your electrician has specified that your lighting circuits, for example, should not be protected by RCD etc then you will need a minimum of 50mm depth of chase.

Thanks. It's a complete rewire so will be whatever protection the 17th edition specifies. Sounds like just going back the brick should be sufficient. What's the typical chase width? Is 4cm going to suffice?
 
Thanks. It's a complete rewire so will be whatever protection the 17th edition specifies. Sounds like just going back the brick should be sufficient. What's the typical chase width? Is 4cm going to suffice?

The width of the chase will be determined by the number and size of cables that you are chasing. The smaller the chases the less work and less plaster need to fill them.
 
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Make life easy on yourself when chasing, either purchase an SDS chasing chisel bit or hire a power chaser, one days hire on a chaser will get all the cutting done and save hours of manual chiseling :D
 
Make life easy on yourself~~~ hire a power chaser,~~~~ and save hours of manual chiseling :D

Also hire a powerful vacuum cleaner, a power chaser ( the type with two cutting wheels ) creates a lot of dust Even with the "dust collector" connected to a vacuum unit there is a lot of dust left in the room.
 
Make life easy on yourself when chasing, either purchase an SDS chasing chisel bit or hire a power chaser, one days hire on a chaser will get all the cutting done and save hours of manual chiseling :D

I've chased into plaster before with a hammer and chisel - not a neat job, but the whole place is being replastered anyway afterwards. I found chasing away the plaster fairly quick so although I've looked at the SDS chisel bits I've not been tempted yet. Are they really that much quicker or is neatness part of the attraction?
 
Mine (an Armeg 25mm one) will chase about 1 ft in 10 secs on a bosch green DIY type drill, so speed is the great attraction, also as it has a bend in it I can nip down behind skirts or coves without disturbing them.
 
If your house is old and has soft, crumbly plaster then there isn't much need to hire or buy a chasing machine.

Cut the chase to suit which conduit or capping you intend to use.
Conduit or capping is not essential, but recommended.

Obviously capping will require more chasing width-wise, but may allow you to avoid cutting into the bricks, as it's usually slightly less thicker than conduit. Plaster thicknesses can vary; it may be very thick or very thin, so be prepared to have to cut into the brickwork.

You should allow about 4 mm minimum of plaster to cover the capping or conduit.
 
I'm going to get my house rewired but want to save some money on the electrician so will chase out the boxes and cable runs myself.

For a full rewire (so Part P notifiable) how deep and wide do I need to chase for the cable into a brick wall? Can I just remove the plaster and go back to the brick?

The minimum possible cuts and chases is the best answer! Building Reg's has a section regarding 'Structural' and I have seen too many cut well over halfway into a brick (or even knock a brick into a cavity) thereby reducing the load bearing capacity of the wall... Now imagine 3 double socket outlets, an aerial outlet and a telephone outlet grouped together and the cutting/chasing undertaken by an "house-basher" (as opposed to a person minimising disturbance...).

Chases... I use capping to mark out chasing required. This way the width is sufficient without being excessive. It's good practice to chase below the tops of skirting boards with the view to enabling cables to be removed from the back box to alter the circuit later... Maybe an additional socket will be required later.

Chasing machines... I utilise a dust extractor when using chasing machines and dust still seems to go everywhere? In an occupied home "by hand" with a large bolster saves an equal amount of time (if not a lot more) in cleaning!

With traditionally constructed homes I do not use the old cable routes - I prefer to ensure I can get under the floor boards (sometimes making an "hatch" in the under stairs cupboard) and plan from here... Chasing walls to get the cables upstairs is also very messy and not user-friendly when future maintenance is to be considered. My normal approach is to widen the chimney breast by a couple of inches with a frame and plasterboard. The cavity provided enables a length of trunking to be run up the inside into the upstairs floor void. The same plasterboard void may also be utilised for a double socket outlet or other accessories and provides a excellent route for co-ax cables, telephone cables, alarm cables and data cables WITHOUT HAVING TO CHASE OR CUT OUT BRICK WALLS!!!!

The way the floor boards run upstairs contributes a lot to positioning of sockets and other accessories. I want to lift a floor board at either side of the room only, but I am a specialist! If socket outlets or other accessories are required along the 2 walls where the floor boards haven't been lifted, then I cut circular access holes through the floor boards (and batten underneath) to provide points at which cables can be accessed. There is normally a flooring support joist just off the wall at this point and so a notch is required to insert cable(s) through - I would normally clear the area behind the skirting board at this point to "fish" the cable up and fill with polystyrene or similar prior to making good. Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance...

With a floor board up at either side of the room either a pendant light or down lights may be installed. For Pendant lights I cut out a 3" hole to use a dry-ling box to mount the pendant on - this also facilitates feeding cables through the ceiling void to the edge where the floor board has been lifted.

A room-by-room approach minimises disruption and disturbance to decor.

Room lighting switches, where possible, are mounted back-to-back, so just one chase is required to cable both rooms lights. The ring main circuit, where possible, exits one room and enters the adjacent room back-to-back. Where bathroom floors are concerned, any electrics beneath I install from the adjacent room - this saves having to remove tiled floors for access later

Where possible, I would also run the trunking from the first floor void up into the loft space either up the inside of a cupboard or using the bit on the side of a chimney breast approach.

Electrician's hourly self-employed rates are between £20 - 25. For those who choose to liaise closely with the builders' work aspects of a home's electrical installation refurbishment the savings not only in time and money, but in heartache and misery, can be most advantageous.

I have undertaken works on the above basis from the North of England to the South of England and what I appreciate most about such is home-owners and/or others assisting obtain a knowledge of home electrics - even the testing procedure to verify the safety of each circuit - which, at the least, enables the determination of the many Indians whom the Cowboys disguise themselves within.

Apart from Part P of the Building Regulations, there are also other Parts to consider including energy efficiency, fire safety, access...

A good electrician will meet the needs of a customer... I find arriving on a Wednesday/Thursday enables the customer to take a Friday off of work and assist with the electrical refurbishment of their home on the Saturday/Sunday too.




For those who require further information please send a message directly
 
I'm going to get my house rewired but want to save some money on the electrician so will chase out the boxes and cable runs myself.

For a full rewire (so Part P notifiable) how deep and wide do I need to chase for the cable into a brick wall? Can I just remove the plaster and go back to the brick?

The minimum possible cuts and chases is the best answer! Building Reg's has a section regarding 'Structural' and I have seen too many cut well over halfway into a brick (or even knock a brick into a cavity) thereby reducing the load bearing capacity of the wall... Now imagine 3 double socket outlets, an aerial outlet and a telephone outlet grouped together and the cutting/chasing undertaken by an "house-basher" (as opposed to a person minimising disturbance...).

Chases... I use capping to mark out chasing required. This way the width is sufficient without being excessive. It's good practice to chase below the tops of skirting boards with the view to enabling cables to be removed from the back box to alter the circuit later... Maybe an additional socket will be required later.

Chasing machines... I utilise a dust extractor when using chasing machines and dust still seems to go everywhere? In an occupied home "by hand" with a large bolster saves an equal amount of time (if not a lot more) in cleaning!

With traditionally constructed homes I do not use the old cable routes - I prefer to ensure I can get under the floor boards (sometimes making an "hatch" in the under stairs cupboard) and plan from here... Chasing walls to get the cables upstairs is also very messy and not user-friendly when future maintenance is to be considered. My normal approach is to widen the chimney breast by a couple of inches with a frame and plasterboard. The cavity provided enables a length of trunking to be run up the inside into the upstairs floor void. The same plasterboard void may also be utilised for a double socket outlet or other accessories and provides a excellent route for co-ax cables, telephone cables, alarm cables and data cables WITHOUT HAVING TO CHASE OR CUT OUT BRICK WALLS!!!!

The way the floor boards run upstairs contributes a lot to positioning of sockets and other accessories. I want to lift a floor board at either side of the room only, but I am a specialist! If socket outlets or other accessories are required along the 2 walls where the floor boards haven't been lifted, then I cut circular access holes through the floor boards (and batten underneath) to provide points at which cables can be accessed. There is normally a flooring support joist just off the wall at this point and so a notch is required to insert cable(s) through - I would normally clear the area behind the skirting board at this point to "fish" the cable up and fill with polystyrene or similar prior to making good. Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance...

With a floor board up at either side of the room either a pendant light or down lights may be installed. For Pendant lights I cut out a 3" hole to use a dry-ling box to mount the pendant on - this also facilitates feeding cables through the ceiling void to the edge where the floor board has been lifted.

A room-by-room approach minimises disruption and disturbance to decor.

Room lighting switches, where possible, are mounted back-to-back, so just one chase is required to cable both rooms lights. The ring main circuit, where possible, exits one room and enters the adjacent room back-to-back. Where bathroom floors are concerned, any electrics beneath I install from the adjacent room - this saves having to remove tiled floors for access later

Where possible, I would also run the trunking from the first floor void up into the loft space either up the inside of a cupboard or using the bit on the side of a chimney breast approach.

Electrician's hourly self-employed rates are between £20 - 25. For those who choose to liaise closely with the builders' work aspects of a home's electrical installation refurbishment the savings not only in time and money, but in heartache and misery, can be most advantageous.

I have undertaken works on the above basis from the North of England to the South of England and what I appreciate most about such is home-owners and/or others assisting obtain a knowledge of home electrics - even the testing procedure to verify the safety of each circuit - which, at the least, enables the determination of the many Indians whom the Cowboys disguise themselves within.

Apart from Part P of the Building Regulations, there are also other Parts to consider including energy efficiency, fire safety, access...

A good electrician will meet the needs of a customer... I find arriving on a Wednesday/Thursday enables the customer to take a Friday off of work and assist with the electrical refurbishment of their home on the Saturday/Sunday too.




For those who require further information please send a message directly
This response has been on line for 9 hours now and not one electrician has made a comment... Maybe I should not give away any further trade secrets on how a "not-an-house-basher" undertakes such works??? :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
riveralt";p="1837420 said:
Possibly just stunned silence that you use polystyrene with cables?[/quot
not over 100mm in depth are the cables passing through...
 
I'm going to get my house rewired but want to save some money on the electrician so will chase out the boxes and cable runs myself.

For a full rewire (so Part P notifiable) how deep and wide do I need to chase for the cable into a brick wall? Can I just remove the plaster and go back to the brick?

The minimum possible cuts and chases is the best answer! Building Reg's has a section regarding 'Structural' and I have seen too many cut well over halfway into a brick (or even knock a brick into a cavity) thereby reducing the load bearing capacity of the wall... Now imagine 3 double socket outlets, an aerial outlet and a telephone outlet grouped together and the cutting/chasing undertaken by an "house-basher" (as opposed to a person minimising disturbance...).

Chases... I use capping to mark out chasing required. This way the width is sufficient without being excessive. It's good practice to chase below the tops of skirting boards with the view to enabling cables to be removed from the back box to alter the circuit later... Maybe an additional socket will be required later.

Chasing machines... I utilise a dust extractor when using chasing machines and dust still seems to go everywhere? In an occupied home "by hand" with a large bolster saves an equal amount of time (if not a lot more) in cleaning!

With traditionally constructed homes I do not use the old cable routes - I prefer to ensure I can get under the floor boards (sometimes making an "hatch" in the under stairs cupboard) and plan from here... Chasing walls to get the cables upstairs is also very messy and not user-friendly when future maintenance is to be considered. My normal approach is to widen the chimney breast by a couple of inches with a frame and plasterboard. The cavity provided enables a length of trunking to be run up the inside into the upstairs floor void. The same plasterboard void may also be utilised for a double socket outlet or other accessories and provides a excellent route for co-ax cables, telephone cables, alarm cables and data cables WITHOUT HAVING TO CHASE OR CUT OUT BRICK WALLS!!!!

The way the floor boards run upstairs contributes a lot to positioning of sockets and other accessories. I want to lift a floor board at either side of the room only, but I am a specialist! If socket outlets or other accessories are required along the 2 walls where the floor boards haven't been lifted, then I cut circular access holes through the floor boards (and batten underneath) to provide points at which cables can be accessed. There is normally a flooring support joist just off the wall at this point and so a notch is required to insert cable(s) through - I would normally clear the area behind the skirting board at this point to "fish" the cable up and fill with polystyrene or similar prior to making good. Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance...

With a floor board up at either side of the room either a pendant light or down lights may be installed. For Pendant lights I cut out a 3" hole to use a dry-ling box to mount the pendant on - this also facilitates feeding cables through the ceiling void to the edge where the floor board has been lifted.

A room-by-room approach minimises disruption and disturbance to decor.

Room lighting switches, where possible, are mounted back-to-back, so just one chase is required to cable both rooms lights. The ring main circuit, where possible, exits one room and enters the adjacent room back-to-back. Where bathroom floors are concerned, any electrics beneath I install from the adjacent room - this saves having to remove tiled floors for access later

Where possible, I would also run the trunking from the first floor void up into the loft space either up the inside of a cupboard or using the bit on the side of a chimney breast approach.

Electrician's hourly self-employed rates are between £20 - 25. For those who choose to liaise closely with the builders' work aspects of a home's electrical installation refurbishment the savings not only in time and money, but in heartache and misery, can be most advantageous.

I have undertaken works on the above basis from the North of England to the South of England and what I appreciate most about such is home-owners and/or others assisting obtain a knowledge of home electrics - even the testing procedure to verify the safety of each circuit - which, at the least, enables the determination of the many Indians whom the Cowboys disguise themselves within.

Apart from Part P of the Building Regulations, there are also other Parts to consider including energy efficiency, fire safety, access...

A good electrician will meet the needs of a customer... I find arriving on a Wednesday/Thursday enables the customer to take a Friday off of work and assist with the electrical refurbishment of their home on the Saturday/Sunday too.




For those who require further information please send a message directly

I've just got online again after the weekend - but thank you ever so much for your post. It's both very informative giving me some ideas for when I tart to chase out and I'd certainly agree with you about it being useful to have some knowledge of the wok (any tradesman does to be able to identify the cowboys. It also makes a lot of sense for those of us who are on modes incomes to do some of the basic work ourselves and save paying a highly skilled professional having to knock out bits of plaster etc.

Thanks again for what I'm sure will be a useful post or a lot of people!!!
 

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