Chemical Anchoring RSJ to Padstone

[DMelv95]

Hello, I've removed a wall between kitchen and dining room. At the external wall, SE has specified beam sitting on top of padstone with M12 chemical anchor, plus an SHS windpost with steel angle, with more bolts between steel angle and RSJ. The other side of the room, the RSJ is on top of 3 cripple studs, so that side is fairly straight forward.

My question is how to get the chemical anchors into the padstone, and then the threads through the RSJ holes?
If I set the anchors in the padstone, then mortar the padstone in place, there's no way to lift the RSJ over the anchors because of the joists above obviously...

Only method I can think of is to acro the RSJ up with holes drilled, put the anchors into the padstone, then put the padstone up through the holes and stuff around with mortar. Leave to set before removing acros.

Attached 2 details of the same end (One of the section details doesn't have the windpost in the drawing but they are both definitely the same end of the RSJ).

Cheers!

 

[tony1851]

Bolting the bottom flange to the padstone doesn't add much to wind resistance.
Of more importance is the connection between the top of the windpost and the underside of the beam.
It would also be better if the windpost itself could be bolted back to the wall (eg with welded lugs) but no fixings are shown.
Presumably the base of the windpost is specified as being fixed to the floor or remaining wall below?
As regards bolting the beam to the padstone, why not ask the SE if s/he has any ideas? You'd need to be very accurate in setting the bolts if you decide to push the padstone up against the underside of the beam.
A lot of useless faff IMO.

 

[robinbanks]

Drill the pad stone then place it, use a tape measure and helper to ensure the distance between the pad stone holes is the same as on the beam, fit the beam, fit the bolts?

Laser chalk line will likely be of help here

Personally I'd cast the pads myself, and just drop the threaded bar into the still-wet mix before vibrating it..

A lot of useless faff IMO

Hear here

 

[Deluks]

Looking at the second picture, surely bolting the wind post into the padstone, through the face of it, would have the same restraining effect.
Lugs as mentioned, or just drill through the wind post.
If you are accurate, then a couple of heavy duty brackets, maybe cut from offcuts of said windpost.

 

[DMelv95]

Thanks all.

Yes the drawing also has lugs welded to the windpost at 400mm centres which are chemically anchored into the breezeblock. They should be fairly straight forward, sorry I should have included those just for full clarity.

At the bottom the windpost is welded to a base plate which is also chemically anchored into a new padstone. We knocked out bricks on the sleeper wall to put the padstone into.

There was a fair amount of swearing from my dad about it seeming like belt, braces, and then some to have so much steel work and anchors, to replace what was a 3 meter span stud partition wall. But we're not the SE's so we'll just do what we need to!

Appreciate all the advice, we've opted to cut a slot in the flange and we'll slide the beam into place on the pad stone in a couple days time!

 

[robinbanks]

You seem to be indicating that the wall you're taking out isn't load bearing?

 

[^woody^]

Note "Typical ..... Detail" - that means it's been cut and pasted from a generic template and is not specifically designed for the job.

Complete waste of time bolting a beam to a padstone, and even more so when the beam is bolted to a column right next to it. Madness.

 

[noseall]

Complete waste of time bolting a beam to a padstone, and even more so when the beam is bolted to a column right next to it. MaMadness.

I agree. Theres sod all lateral, vertical or any amount of meat, to fix to. The SE is a dick.