Chipboard flooring want to remove nails

[Deleted member 174758]

Or there will be a water leak and it will turn to mush.

Not if you use P5 it won't. If water is left on any timber product (including plywood, softwood, etc) over a number of years, it will rot. The problem isn't just confined to chipboard. Older builds from the 70s and 80s into the 1990s used square edged full sheets and the chipboard available then wasn't moisture resistant. Things have changed somewhat in the last 20 years and all the stuff we lay these days is moisture resistant (P5) spec. BTW I don't do much pure domestic new build - we're mainly on commercial builds where there is probably a greater chance of stuff needing to be reconfigured (i.e. floors coming up) and where traffic/loadings far exceed any domestic environment.

Face it, John, you are really just a chipboard snob

 

[JohnD]

a chipboard hater.

 

[bobasd]

well agree with job an knock, the other claim about c/board cracking etc. are fantasy.plus the op's question is about the landing an bedrooms - usuly no sinks ther.

OP,
make sure the joists are fixed solid an sound.test the floor for bounce.
google Draper tack lifter - that will start the nail head an give you a start without destroyin the surface.
then google crows foot nail puller or cats paw nail puller.
all dead cheap an handy tools.

the nail puller ref to above is rubbish dont touch it.

 

[JohnD]

the other claim about c/board cracking etc. are fantasy

I think we can both agree that you have never been in my house.

If you tell me that you have never knowingly been in a house where the chipboard has cracked then perhaps you are right.

 

[bobasd]

i think we can bioth agree that youve never worked in the buildin trades instalin subfloors.
i dont base my advice on what happened in my house but on experience in the buildin game in new site work
an remedial work over a few years.

no ive never come across traffic cracked c/board

 

[Leofric]

Jobandknock , I acknowledge the points you made. I can't honestly remember who said about not gluing chipboard , I think it was somebody to do with central heating. I had my microbore non oxygen barrier plastic ch piping replaced with min 15mm oxygen barrier plastic pipe within first floor and 15mm copper down to ground floor radiators which involved cutting access panels out of the first floor chipboard at various places and the buggers didn't put timber noggins under the unsupported edges ,and consequently there is a lot of creaking as you walk about the 1st floor. I intend taking up the panels when I get round to it - how do you fix the noggins to the joists ?
regards

 

[bobasd]

one good practice is to white glue the edges an
use construction adhesive on the joists, then screw.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If you tell me that you have never knowingly been in a house where the chipboard has cracked then perhaps you are right.

On modern chipboard flooring if I come across a cracked chipboard board I tend to start looking for either abuse or structural problems rather than materials failures. Sadly, I have been in houses and even in offices and hotels with creaking floors, but that's generally down to poor/skimped installation and the blame can often be laid fairly and squarely at the door of price work (coupled with lack of adequate supervision/quality control). In the case of the OP he's installing from scratch, so if he takes his time and is methodical in installing his floor i feel he should have no problems in the future

If it's any consolation, John, my last full refurb (on a domestic that I lived in as opposed to a trade job) was given 22mm T&G P5 and to date there haven't been any problems (10 years+)

... which involved cutting access panels out of the first floor chipboard at various places and the buggers didn't put timber noggins under the unsupported edges ,and consequently there is a lot of creaking as you walk about the 1st floor. I intend taking up the panels when I get round to it - how do you fix the noggins to the joists ?
regards

Go for a 2 x 2 or 3 x 2in CLS and cut so it's a tight fit. Get yourself a drill/countersink (such as the Snappy ones - 5mm is the size) or a 12mm spade bit (the sort with a plain point rather than a screw type point) and drill angled starters holes - two per end. The noggins are knocked into position with a hammer and then screwed in place - for which you'll need a power screwdriver of some description to get the screws all pulled up tight. You should be aiming to use fairly big screws, 5.0 x 70 (#10 x 2-3/4in) or the like if you can. I've lost count of the number of refurbs I've been on where we've had to correct sloppy work like that from other trades in the past (mainly plumbers and sparkies) who should know how to re-instate a floor properly. If there is insufficient bearing along the joists, then fix some 2 x 1 slate lath down the length of the joist(s) at the top to give additional support. If bought damp this can be screwed in place without the need to pilot drill - go for dry 2 x 1 PAR softwood and you'll need to pilot drill before you fix

 

[JohnD]

i think we can bioth agree that youve never worked in the buildin trades instalin subfloors.

By an astonishing chance, you are wrong.

 

[Leofric]

Thanks for the information JobAndKnock. Drilling in at an angle was/will be my problem.
ps sorry to hijack the original post.

 

[bobasd]

come off it - no one who does this kind of work for a livin would use his own house as the only exampl he can come up with.
or is it that you think nocking about your own place doin bits of diy qualifies you to speak as building trades experienced?
your chipboard experience most likely bein influenced by repeatin the false views you read on forums like this.

wonder whats happenin on the other side of the wall?

 

[JohnD]

you said

youve never worked in the buildin trades instalin subfloors.

You were wrong.

I didn't say that I still do it for a living.

 

[bobasd]

oh so thats your mickey mouse attempt at a creepin get out - what next, you wanna change your original posts to claim i dont now the the colour of your wall paper? its nown as movin the goalposts. manup

 

[JohnD]

you said

youve never worked in the buildin trades instalin subfloors.

And, perhaps surprisingly, you were wrong.

I'm not the one trying to move goalposts.

I can see you are an angry and resentful person.

Goodbye.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Thanks for the information JobAndKnock. Drilling in at an angle was/will be my problem.

Piece of cake with a spade bit: start by drilling in at right angles to the surface - just to the depth of the point and maybe a few mm more (or about 5 to 10mm). Stop the drill and withdraw from the material. Now insert the point at the appropriate angle, pushing the point into the hole made by the first drilling. Drill until happy with the depth. A bit crude, but fast and does the job