Circulating pump for an individual radiator

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It does heat it, when the heating is pumping. The problem is, it gets cool very quickly. I am well aware the room is not efficient at keeping heat, I just wondered it there is something simple I could do.
 
You would need to take the aforementioned rad pipes to the cylinder (heatbank), before considering what you want to do (fit another pump or MVs). You will also need to fit a room thermostat to make the system work.
 
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There is no simple way of achieving what you want.

You could install individual radiator heads interlocked with the boiler without changing the pipework eg: Honeywell CM Zone or Hometronic. But that is expensive.

You could run new pipes from your undersized radiator to the airing cupboard and fit a dedicated zone valve, but that will be expensive and disruptive.

Or you could fit a Worcester Air 2 Air heatpump in the conservatory which will give very efficient heating and comfort cooling in the summer, but that will cost you to put in.

Or you could watch that DIY programme again.......but there is nothing a DIY programme can show that we here collectively on the forum don't know already. If you boiler is near to the conservatory then a new circuit is easy, but I doubt it is near to the conservatory.
 
Hi all,

First post for me, here goes.

i've just had a radiator fitted in my conservatory, how difficult would it be to fit a small pump to circulate water through it on an "on demand basis"?

My heating system is a Potterton Suprima and a Boilermate 2000.

You say the rad is good enough for the conservatory. The problem appears that the house wall stat cuts off the house and leaves the conservatory cold, which still needs heat.

This is can be tackled simply effectively by:

1) Installing a Wilo Smart or Grundfos Alpha auto variable speed pump, in place of the existing CH pump in the BoilerMate.
2) Link out the room stat at the BoilerMate so the pump is always energised, remove it.
3) Fit thermostatic rad valves on all rads in the house.

Each room then runs independently with no centralized temperature control, so the benefits are to the whole house not just the conservatory.

This means if all the house is up to temperature and the TRVs closed down the conservatory will still have heat being pumped to the radiator. If all TRVs are closed down the Smart pump runs right down automatically so no pumping.

Smart pumps and thermals store/heat pumps area perfect match when the CH is run from the store of water.

I would also fit a magnaclean to the return of the CH loop back to the store. This is essential.
 
Hi all,

First post for me, here goes.

i've just had a radiator fitted in my conservatory, how difficult would it be to fit a small pump to circulate water through it on an "on demand basis"?

My heating system is a Potterton Suprima and a Boilermate 2000.

You say the rad is good enough for the conservatory. The problem appears that the house wall stat cuts off the house and leaves the conservatory cold, which still needs heat.

This is can be tackled simply effectively by:

1) Installing a Wilo Smart or Grundfos Alpha auto variable speed pump, in place of the existing CH pump in the BoilerMate.
2) Link out the room stat at the BoilerMate so the pump is always energised, remove it.
3) Fit thermostatic rad valves on all rads in the house.

Each room then runs independently with no centralized temperature control, so the benefits are to the whole house not just the conservatory.

This means if all the house is up to temperature and the TRVs closed down the conservatory will still have heat being pumped to the radiator. If all TRVs are closed down the Smart pump runs right down automatically so no pumping.

Smart pumps and thermals store/heat pumps area perfect match when the CH is run from the store of water.


so the pump and boiler will run 24/7 and any trv's that don't shut off perfectly (a common scenario with sludge buckets/thermal stores) will cause unwanted heat in some rooms. The primaries/bypass will also be hot all summer long wasting gas and providing uncomfortable levels of heat in the summer. There will also be no interlock by removing the roomstat which contravenes Part P energy efficency. Not such a bright idea bigbullshit. :evil:
 
so the pump and boiler will run 24/7

No there is a timeclock. The Smart pump will run in the on periods. And it will wind up and down to suit automatically, so may be off completely when all TRVs are closed.

You need to understand more. Best not try and be a smartie, you are not that that bright as you have indicated, as just take it as read. It is easier that way. Just learn and try to understand.
 
Before you start spouting about control systems have a look at http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_PTL_DOMHEAT.pdf

This gives minimum requirements for compliance with Part L of the building regulations and a timeclock and TRVs is not compliant. There must be a roomstat fitted in a room with an uncontrolled radiator to comply.

I am also very dubious about your claim that the Wilo Smart may be completely off when all TRVs are closed. I have no experience of the Wilo but have fitted loads of Grundfoss Alphas and they certainly don't come to a stop if all the TRV's are shut. (I'm sure I'm not alone in forgetting to open the pump gate valves after vchanging a pump).
 
so the pump and boiler will run 24/7

No there is a timeclock. The Smart pump will run in the on periods. And it will wind up and down to suit automatically, so may be off completely when all TRVs are closed.

You need to understand more. Best not try and be a smartie, you are not that that bright as you have indicated, as just take it as read. It is easier that way. Just learn and try to understand.

smart pumps modulate but don't switch themselves on and off as you state you muppet. Again you show your lack of knowledge! Maybe you should sign up to one of these e-learning courses. :LOL:
 

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